About two hours south of Prague lies an enchanting medieval wonder called Cesky Krumlov. When we told Prague locals our next destination was Cesky Krumlov, they got a wistful look in their eyes and commended us on our honorable and enviable decision to visit one of Czech Republic’s more off-the-beaten-path gems known for its quaint, pastoral vibe and 13th century castle. Upon arrival into Cesky Krumlov, we immediately learned of its Quaintness, and I purposefully capitalize that “q,” as we quickly discovered the lack of public transit and assistance the moment we disembarked the train. Luckily, a bus pulled up not too shortly after we arrived, and it seemed to be our only way out of the station, so after attempting to communicate with the friendly bus driver and dropping the name of the hotel street name, we boarded the bus with fingers crossed and nerves elevated. The bus driver was kind enough to make sure we got off at our correct stop, and we only had to walk a few steps from the stop before entering the gates of one of the most charming villages I have ever seen. It was like entering a medieval village on a movie set or Disney World, or the Renaissance Festival. Large cinnamon sugar covered dough desserts, called Trdelnik, baking on cylindrical spits perfumed the air, as Bohemian (real Bohemian) musicians played whimsical, Renaissance-y harps and steel drums. The cobble stone pathway was lined with touristic shops, each one decorated with exposed wooden beams and Renaissance murals. Our hotel, The Hotel Bellevue, was in a fabulous location and boasted the top restaurant, Le Jardin, in the village. We only stayed one night in Cesky Krumlov, but I would certainly return for more. Though there may not be an overwhelming amount of activities to pursue or sites to see within this idyllic town in South Bohemia, it’s a romantic escape into a fanciful, medieval time warp.
Highlights and moments:
-Leisurely lunch along the Vltava river. We went to Papa’s on the river and sat at a picnic table outside in their back riverside patio. The river feels a lot more intimate in Cesky Krumlov than it does in Prague. Charming, storybook homes border the river on either side with inviting pubs and restaurants interspersed throughout. One of Cesky Krumlov’s claims to recreational fame is canoe and raft renting on the babbling, rapid-minimal stretch of Vltava River running through it. As we dined at Papa’s we observed countless families, couples, and friends enjoying a mildly adventurous paddle down the river. Some pubs that back up to the river allow for river riders to “dock” their vessels at their back patio for a paddling pit-stop pint. Alex and I knew we had to ease ourselves down that river at one point or another before departing.
-Strolling and stopping for drinks with Alex. Cesky Krumlov is the perfect place for ambling aimlessly. At any given moment, you half expect all the villagers to bust open their shutters from their flower boxed windows and begin singing a cheery song in unison. Taking this village in through the eyes and on foot is marvel worthy in itself, especially if you’re from the states and only see such medieval relics in hokey amusement parks. Alex and I walked and stopped in shops and stopped at a cool lookout point, and then finally into an adorable little pub along the river. We got a table on the back patio so we could sip beer and cider and listen to the soothing gush of the river. Just as a warning to fellow travelers interested in visiting Cesky Krumlov, bring a sweater or light jacket. We were visiting in late July and we both had to wear rain jackets due to a slightly cooler, misty kind of climate. Alex and I enjoyed the autumn-like reprieve from the city swelter, and as we took in our surroundings, a glorious full-arching rainbow appeared in the sky behind us. Like an artist’s finishing touch on his masterpiece, this sealed the deal for me in terms of my Cesky Krumlov love affair. It truly is now forever my “somewhere over the rainbow.”
-Dinner at Le Jardin. Like I said before, our hotel housed the top rated restaurant in town, but beyond the wonderful convenience of the restaurant, the food was top notch. I actually rate this dinner as one of my top meals of my entire trip. The ambiance is lovely, as the restaurant is in a stone-walled cellar type room and candle lit.
-Canoeing down the Vltava river. Alex and I were determined to get ourselves onto some type of river vessel, and so we set out bright and early the following morning to rent an inflatable canoe and bob on down the lazy natural river. I cannot describe in words just how relaxing and peaceful an experience this was for us, I can only highly recommend you do it! There are a few rapids, but they are nothing to sweat about. It’s a super fun worthwhile experience. 
-Climbing the tower of the 13th century castle and witnessing my dear dad’s height fright. The castle is a really neat piece of architecture that was originally built in the Gothic style, but was renovated in the Renaissance style in the 16th century. The tower of the castle is what I envision Ariel from The Little Mermaid living in with Prince Eric. The etchings on the tower looked like light pink, fanning seashells. We weren’t in the mood for a giant history lesson and also wanted to get lunch at an awesome cave spot before catching our shuttle to Vienna that afternoon, so we decided to simply climb the stairs of the tower and enjoy the panoramic views at the top. Perhaps I shouldn’t have said “simply,” this was not the easiest feat, especially for Jackie and my pops, who suffers from a terrible hip needing replacement. The stairs became narrower and narrower, and the stream of tourists coming up and down simultaneously did not make the climb any easier. I will say, however, the views from the top are worth it.
Madness & Magic 