My insatiable love of traveling has an origin story: my very first expedition out west with my mother and brother at the age of eight.  This was a time pre-GPS and long before Siri, when one had to dog ear the pages of a Fodor’s: Western USA Guidebook to develop a travel itinerary and wrestle with the accordion-folded maps that now gather dust in the glove compartment.  This was a time that certainly lent itself to true exploration of the unknown, and it is most certainly what initiated my ever pervasive wanderlust.  Our arrival in Sedona, Arizona was unsettling: it was our first vacation with only our mother; we set out from Tucson with a rapidly darkening sky and the longest, brightest bolts of lightening we had ever seen.     I had cried my eyes out in the rental car until I could empty my bladder behind  a suitable cactus, and my 11-year-old brother was playing the part of the superior spouse by questioning my mother’s every move. We checked into our Holiday Inn and then aimlessly perused the aisles of souvenir shops selling prickly pear cactus candy and red rock merchandise. I was trying to ignore our mother’s palpable self-doubt. The clerk behind the counter seemed to recognize our anxiety.  She gave me a smile that felt like a warm towel after an icy dip in the ocean.  Mom asked her about any local points of interest.  The clerk with the towel smile handed us a postcard that depicted a concave mass of red rock boulders, its open mouth a layered cake of yucca trees and cacti.  It reminded me of the sand art my mother would help me bottle and cork on a rainy day.  “You’re just in time to see the sunset on the Vista Trail. The kids will love it.  It’s peaceful, it’s a decent hike, it’ll make you glad you came,” the clerk said to our mother, as my eager eyes scanned the glossy postcard. I’d only seen a terrain like this in episodes of Wiley Coyote.  We loaded into the rental car with the directions my mom had scribbled down and set off for Boynton Canyon.  The sky looked like burnt rainbow sherbet melting around the unearthly plateaus of brick-colored rock. The hike up the Canyon wasn’t very treacherous, but the fact that every shrub, every grain of dirt, every bird call or cry was so utterly foreign and unfamiliar, made the ascent such a thrill. The moment the three of us climbed onto the tall rock formations I experienced a feeling I can only liken to the involuntary act of falling blindly in love.  I breathed in that dry, desert air, gave my mom a hug that spoke louder than any “I love you,” and acknowledged how grateful I was to be alive and to be part of such an unbelievably beautiful world. It was in this moment that I realized how much more beauty there must be for me to discover and, since then, have  been determined to continue searching for those beautiful corners of the world.  As I often tell my 7th grade English students, we frame our lives in stories.  The combination of fear, originality, and unfamiliarity made this trip, my first adventure into the unknown, the initiating event in my questing thirst for travel.

All this is to say that Sedona, AZ and the Southwest U.S. hold a special place in my heart and my story.  And feeling the undertow of my rapidly approaching 30 year old birthday, gave me cause for pause and pangs of nostalgia, so when Alex asked me where I wanted to go for Spring Break 2018, I knew exactly where my soul’s compass was pointing.  The Southwest would not only provide me with the reconnect my soul was seeking, but it is also home to a natural wonder that had been on my bucket list for years: Antelope Canyon.

Our itinerary for our full week in the Southwest was as follows:

3/24-3/26: Las Vegas, NV, Flamingo Hotel

3/26-3/27: Page, AZ (Antelope Canyon), Lake Powell Resort

3/27-3/29: Grand Canyon South Rim, Yavapai Lodge in Grand Canyon, Inside the Park

3/29-4/1: Sedona, AZ, Air B n B off Road Runner Road

Detailed Itinerary, Recommendations, and Reflections:

Fabulous Las Vegas:

We stayed in The Flamingo, because I am a Total Rewards member and was able to get us the best discounted rates at this TR property. Two words: never again. In my younger years, The Flamingo sufficed; it is in the center of the strip, it is always cheap, and back then I was fairly used to sleeping on couches and letting price trump comfort. Times have changed, and though I wouldn’t go so far as to say that Alex and I have become pretentious, luxury travelers, we’ve warmly welcomed the next traveling chapter in our lives where we are fortunate enough to say no to The Flamingo, and that we will… next time. The upside of staying in that pink hovel was that we felt we could spend more funds on fun and entertainment!

Highlights and moments:

Brunch at Bardot Brasserie: Located in The Aria, Bardot Brasserie delivers a lavish, Parisian brunch experience that leaves no detail ignored. From the complimentary bread and butter to the truffle oil used on the breakfast potatoes, all ingredients tasted superior.

Walking the entire strip: It had been quite a while since Al and I had sauntered the strip in its near entirety, and when we decided we weren’t in the mood to drink all day, gamble all day, or hit up a pool party, taking a leisurely stroll to soak in all the sights, sounded like the perfect activity. We tried to go to the Neon Museum, but word to the wise, you must purchase tickets in advance. We learned the hard way… a $50 cab ride to and fro kind of hard way… le sigh. We still want to try the Neon Museum, so next time! Instead, we had the cab driver drop us off down by Mandalay Bay, and walked from Mandalay Bay to somewhat near the MGM. My phone mile tracker clocked 8 miles total by the time we went up to shower for dinner. It’s amazing to me that even after all my countless trips to Vegas, the strip still captivates me. Along our walk we enjoyed the iconic Bellagio fountain show; break dancers, magicians, and showgirls soliciting tips (some talents more prosperous than others) but all entertaining nonetheless; the grandeur of the various casino and hotel entrances, each one so inauthentically authentic to its theme or reconstruction; and bars, shops, and restaurants pumping club anthems and blinding potential customers with offensive messages and offensively glitzy lights, of which are both part of the taboo charm of this city. Nothing is off limits and crude behavior is encouraged. In an overly censored world, sometimes the escape into playfully uncensored tourism is enthusiastically welcome. We stopped off at The Linq’s outdoor shopping and restaurant plaza where we purchased tickets for The High Roller (large Ferris wheel) for that evening and then did some successful shopping before heading back to ready ourselves for a Vegas night out, which, in my experience, are never nights that disappoint.

High Roller & Gambling Before Dinner: We made a reservation for the High Roller at 7:30, after checking the time of sunset on our phones. We stopped at an outdoor bar within the Linq outdoor shopping area for champagne in to-go cups (another reason to love Vegas: limitless access to adult beverages. If seeking a trip well lubricated with libations, Vegas is THE destination). We boarded the High Roller cabin right as the desert sun was sliding down beyond the Sierra Nevadas. We were joined by an interesting “couple”…. the two divulged to us rather quickly the true nature of their relationship on board our High Roller vestibule and it was a scandalous relationship to say the least. Though they provided a great deal of entertainment brinking on discomfort, next time, I’d pay more for a private cabin. High Roller is totally worth it though! I couldn’t believe this was my first time springing for the ride, but the price isn’t too outrageous and if you go at sunset, it’s the perfect way to drink in the unique landscape: the twinkling, sleepless strip juxtaposed by the wild, rugged desert mountains.

After many years of gambling, admittedly, I’ve had my ups and downs. In my seasoned experience, I have learned that the tables are my better friends prior to dinner. I know it makes zero logical sense and it’s bordering on narcissistic for me to believe the time of day has anything to do with my good fortune, but, being my father’s daughter, I am superstitious to a fault. At any rate, I try to squeeze in my favorite table games into the couple of hours just before a dinner reservation. On a couple of occasions I have missed my reservation or pushed my reservation by an hour and a half due to pre-dinner heaters. And a true gambler knows that when you’re on a heater, you stop for nothing, not even to pee. One minute change to the molecular environment surrounding the person on said heater could potentially disrupt the fortunate energy flow. All this is to say, Al and I spent a couple of hours playing Craps before dinner at The Cromwell and, true to its fragile and flimsy reliability, had immensely good fortune. We nearly tripled our money. Sometimes, gambling can be an investment.

Dinner at Beauty and Essex: If you’ve followed my previous escapades on this blog, you’ll know I thoroughly enjoyed myself at this restaurant with my dear old dad not too long ago and vowed that I had to bring my husband to this place on our next Vegas stint. True to my vow, Alex and I indulged in a love affair with our food and drinks at my second, his first, visit to this gothically romantic culinary destination. I ordered the exact meal I had ordered on my first visit: grilled cheese wontons to share and the chicken meatballs stuffed with buratta, because my first encounter with them left a year-long impression on me.

Page, Arizona

The drive from Vegas to just about anywhere is a compelling experience for any East Coaster. The landscape is so vastly different in all its desolate glory from our construction cluttered highways or leafy green roadways. I always enjoy a road trip that originates in Vegas, it makes me feel like a western pioneer. We rented a Mustang convertible, because we have learned that on a road-heavy itinerary, having a convertible or moon roof can be an experience in itself. We stopped along our 4 hour route at a natural site called the Toadstool Hoodoos in Paria Rimrocks within the town of Kanab. We tried getting lunch at an adorable cafe called Rocking V’s in Kanab, but sadly they weren’t serving lunch and were setting up for dinner. Toadstool Hoodoos was pretty cool. It’s a super easy walk, wouldn’t even call it a hike, to the rock formations that look like giant cairns. It was overrun with loud families playing hide and seek within the rock formations, so that detracted from its splendor. But, it’s worth a quick stop if you’re going that same 4 hour stretch from Vegas to Page.

Ultimately, we made it to Lake Powell Resort just before sunset, where we splurged for the nicest room they had to offer with a lake view. This was well worth it! I would love to return to Lake Powell and maybe rent a houseboat with friends. At the time, I was obsessed with the TV show Westworld, and the panorama of Lake Powell was giving me major Westworld vibes. We live on a lake, so I am a little bit spoiled and hold high expectations for lake views, but Lake Powell surpassed those high standards. The beauty of the vermillion canyons bordering the water’s edge in the sun setting light was one of those sights our phone cameras couldn’t possibly do justice, The best way to capture that sight was by drinking it in with the naked eye and committing its every sensory detail to memory.

After savoring the sunset and also spotting a coyote hunting a rabbit, which was very cool for us since we never see wild coyotes, we headed to the bar for dinner and drinks. Lake Powell Resort is a great place for all ages. There is a nice bar, a big restaurant, a pool and hot tub, and an inviting fire pit for roasting s’mores and meeting new friends. We got appetizers for dinner, which were good enough, and some wine before calling it a night.

Antelope Canyon (Lower)

This was the main reason for this trip: Antelope Canyon. Thanks to Instagram, I had been mesmerized by this slot canyon’s beauty the minute I laid eyes on its petrified wave-like splendor. We read multiple reviews and blog posts about which tour to take, upper or lower, and lower won by a landslide. Lower Antelope Canyon is much longer than upper and you have more opportunities for catching glimpses of some of those famous light beams that filter through the fiery waves of rock in the canyon. Though insanely crowded, our guide was phenomenal and timed photo taking and walking through the canyon in such a way to achieve the feeling of being one of a few in the canyon, versus the reality of being one of hundreds. Even though I detest crowds, the tour through Antelope Canyon did not disappoint. Next to Gimmelwald, Switzerland; Petra, Jordan; the ice caves of Hali, Iceland, this was one of the coolest natural wonders I’ve ever been so fortunate to experience. If you’re into photography, get yourself to Antelope Canyon. It is a subject worthy of an entire roll of film. Bucket list item checked.

Horseshoe Bend & Grand Canyon, South Rim

Both Alex and I hadn’t returned to the Grand Canyon since we were about 8 years old. We were eager to take it in as fully formed adults and indulge some nostalgia as well by visiting familiar trails and restaurants that seemed gigantic and alien to 8 year old eyes. On our way to the Grand Canyon we stopped first at Horseshoe Bend. This was crawling with tourists. The sight itself is stunning and Instagram worthy if you can muster the courage to stretch your arm for a selfie while standing on the cliff’s edge. Due to the tourist infestation, I didn’t feel like spending too much time at Horseshoe Bend. We were traveling during spring break, so perhaps visiting during an off-peak time would be more enjoyable and serene.

We also stopped at the Little Colorado Overlook on our way, and this was incredibly serene and quiet. The views are cool, not amazing, but still worth a quick stop. We stopped for lunch at the Cameron Trading Post, certainly a childhood pit stop I remembered fondly. It has a storefront laden with Native American chachkis and canyon souvenirs and also has a big restaurant with a lovely view out onto a rocky cliff face. We feasted on some southwestern fare, purchased a couple souvenirs for our nieces and then were back on our merry way to the South Rim entrance.

Our first stop within the park was the Desert View Watchtower, a sight I remembered vividly from my first childhood adventure out west with my mom and brother. Alex also remembered stopping here as a kid. We walked up to the very top of the tower and enjoyed our first sweeping views of the Grand Canyon in all her expansive glory. The angle doesn’t matter, any gaze from any angle inspires speechlessness.  Seeking asylum from the droves of tourists, we hiked down a craggy path beyond the stone walled borders of the desert tower, which took us frighteningly closer to the canyon’s edge.

We checked in to Yavapai Lodge, a clean, well-preserved relic of American National Park lodging history. The lodge is modest and well camouflaged amidst the pines, certain to not upstage the natural beauty of the canyon.  We headed into “town” hoping to get dinner at the famous El Tovar hotel, a lodge that boasts the best real estate on top of the canyon at South Rim, and a place Alex and I both recalled from our childhoods having a memorable rustic grandeur.  Unfortunately, El Tovar requires reservations made well in advance, so we opted for the cozy, mahogany paneled bar where we feasted on appetizers and got to know the friendly bartender who gave us some hiking advice for our next full day in the park.

Our plan the following morning was to hike South Kaibab trail all the way down to Skeleton Point, which is 3 miles down and 6 miles round trip.  It is inadvisable to try to hike all the way down to the river of the canyon and back in one day, so we welcomed the warning. Al and I are seasoned hikers and enjoy a strenuous test of muscle and endurance on a natural playground, but as we hiked the countless switchbacks down toward Skeleton Point, dodging tourist groups and donkey trains, we discovered that canyon hiking isn’t our forte. Al and I are used to climbing an ascent and marveling at the reward at the top.  With canyon hiking, we already were enjoying the reward from the top.  As stated previously, it doesn’t matter the angle with the Grand Canyon, you’ll be rewarded from any standpoint, so this is not to say that the views weren’t as good as we hiked toward the bottom, but we weren’t as motivated to keep going as we typically are on an ascending hike.  This being said, we decided to turn around at Cedar Ridge instead of Skeleton Point, which is only a 3 mile round trip hike instead of 6.

After returning to the top of South Kaibab and discussing our conclusion regarding canyon hiking, we decided to walk the rim trail instead of seeking another trail.  Though it didn’t propel the heart rates as a trail hike would have, the rim trail was the perfect decision for us; there were barely any other people on it and so we got to take in the sounds, smells, and colors of the canyon in peaceful serenity.  Our rim trail walk was concluded by a sunset over the canyon that seemed to grow more kaleidoscopic by each darkening minute.  We opted to another dinner of appetizers at the El Tovar bar before calling it a night.

Sedona, Arizona 

As I stated in my prologue , my first trip out west with my mom and brother when I was around 8 was when I fell in love with traveling, and the leg of that trip I remember most vividly was our time in Sedona, AZ. Needless to say, I was giddy with excitement to show Alex this magical city amidst the red rocks.  Al had never been, so I was eager for him to experience my same wonderment.  We had a full day to ourselves before our dear friends were meeting us that night for a couples adventure over the weekend.

The drive from Grand Canyon to Sedona is a lovely one, especially when you get to Oak Creek Canyon.  You’ll pass Slide Rock, natural water slides of mossy covered red rock where tourists go to play and jump off the canyon’s edges.

We had time for lunch and a quick hike before we needed to check in for our jeep tour, so we stopped at Creekside American Bistro, across from Tlaquepaque Shopping Village, for a delicious lunch and even more delicious jalapeno margaritas.  Yes. Please. We had the pleasure of driving the main drag of Sedona on our way to Creekside, and in doing so, Alex quickly became enamored by Sedona’s infectious charm.  The main drag consists of two double decker rows of ice cream parlors, confectionaries, saloon style and taqueria restaurants, crystal shops run by fortune tellers, and other typical tourist comforts like t-shirt and toy shops. Though bustling with life, leisure, and entertainment, nothing can upstage the Sedona backdrop; a sprawl of vermilion giants, an oceanic graveyard of burnt sienna balancing acts, cacti, yucca, and agave lacing their way from base to pinnacle.

After lunch we opted for Cathedral Rock trail, a somewhat steep, but short hike that provides sweeping views of the vibrant panorama. It is said to be home to an energy vortex, though sadly we can’t honestly report any vibrational epiphanies. Even if you’re more of a traditionalist or realist, Sedona’s bourgeoning industry of new-age practices and medicines is bemusing to behold, and in my opinion, endearing. I am a fan of all things mystical, spiritual, and magical, and therefore felt right at home in Sedona’s crystal jangling, energy healing, vortex swirling embrace.

Our Red Rock Jeep Tour was amusing and educational, albeit, far from an adrenaline pumping thrill. Though it is true that often times our experiences as children are absorbed with hyperbolic disproportion, I seem to recall experiencing a far more thrilling tour with Pink Jeep Tours, which is who we went through when I took a Jeep tour with my mom and brother back when I was 8. Red Rock’s route was peaceful, and our guide, a larger-than-life cowboy clad in leather and boot spurs, emphasized the historical and vegetational narrative of the land, which was certainly interesting, but again, not a thrill ride.

After our Jeep tour we decided to locate our Air B and B, a basement “apartment” that slept four. We were slightly apprehensive about a basement dwelling, but the reviews were glowing and there was a separate back entrance as to not require guests to go through the upstairs of someone’s home to get to it. We were pleasantly surprised when we arrived to discover a sprawling backyard equipped with a pool, a hot tub, and really funky/interesting handmade sculptures. The basement apartment was homey, charming, and well appointed with all the comforts a few wayward desert travelers would need. The location was also wonderful; a quiet neighborhood nestled adjacent to the main drag. Though, quiet is easy to come by in Sedona. We went out to dinner before our friends arrived at a place called Sound Bites Grill, a vivacious looking bar and grill with live music. We rapidly discovered, however, that nightlife is not Sedona’s forte. Sound Bites was a fun restaurant with great service, good food, and entertaining live music. But, its club-esque facade and flashy bar are a bit illusive, as the place was nearly empty, save a couple of families with boisterous children. Sedona offers something for every age, but I’d say it’s target audience is families and retired couples. The lack of popping nightlife suited us fine and well. Though we of course still pat ourselves on the back for achieving a wild night out once and again, we have grown to love vacations where our day is so packed with action, exercise, and adventure, that all we want to cap off the day is fun conversation over a bottle of wine. Our dear, dear friends were joining us as well, and with our cozy Air B and B space, we knew that if we stocked up on some essential provisions, AKA wine and Doritos, we would be creating the recipe for some perfect nights in.

After dinner we eagerly anticipated the arrival of Doug and Kate, our comedic, free-spirited friends who picked up their cat and lives and moved from D.C. to San Diego in September, chasing those best coast dreams of perpetual sunshine, tacos, and general overall betterness. When they arrived, they regaled us with tales of their sunny, new lives in San Diego, and kept us heartily amused and laughing late into the night. These two are fun to be around doing nothing at all, so getting to travel with them was certainly a treat!

The following day was our hiking day, something Doug, Al, and I were stoked to pursue, but not necessarily Kate’s vacation priority. I can honestly say, however, not only did she embark on the adventure with grace, she zealously tackled the mountain with generous enthusiasm. When I don’t want to do something, I’m much more of a stubborn drag. We set our sights on Bear Mountain, which according to The Hike House database, is one of the most difficult trails in Sedona. The ascent on Bear Mountain wasn’t the most difficult we’ve climbed, but what was most challenging was how it has many “false endings,” meaning we thought we were “almost there” about three times only to discover that we had yet another peak to climb over. This, compounded with merciless, desert sun pounding on our backs, certainly created a level of difficulty. Regardless, the views from many points throughout the hike, and of course from the very top, are spectacular. We enjoyed some sandwiches in the shade of a tree at the pinnacle before making our way back down the mountain, eager to beat sunset. The entire trip took us about 5 hours and we got a later start than intended, so we were on the brink of golden hour and ready to reward ourselves with libations.

Sweaty, sunburnt, and dusty, we first stopped at Mariposa, a swanky cocktail lounge and restaurant just outside the heart of the main drag. Even though Sedona is a casual place, we felt a bit underdressed at Mariposa. Families were coming in donning sports jackets and cocktail dresses. Regardless, we had earned our cocktails that day and Mariposa served up one of the best jalapeño margaritas I’ve ever had.

After Mariposa, we headed into the heart of the main drag, craving Mexican food and to sustain our buzzes. Oaxaca Restaurant borders on tourist trap, and we knew we were risking the possibility of the food being trash, but shockingly, the food was excellent and we got to savor our gluttony while gazing out on one of the best views in town. Oaxaca has a roof level patio and we had a stellar view of both town and the mountains. To make matters even more magical, there was a glowing full moon that we watched rise between two mountain peaks and then proceed to bathe the entire city in milky white moonlight. Pure magic.

On our second full day in Sedona, our agenda consisted of some morning shopping in town, then horseback riding, and then our fanciest dinner plan of the entire trip, let alone our fanciest dinner we have ever splurged on. Kate and I were eager to receive the word of a new-age gypsy and to glean some direction from a Sedona heretic, so we had booked fortune teller appointments at a busy crystal shop in town. Kate fell in love with her reader, mine was witchy to say the least, but both of us highly enjoyed the experience, and I think when in Sedona, it’s a must. We bought some crystals before hitting the desert road with our skeptic S.O.’s for our horseback riding adventure.

I booked our two hour horseback riding tour through a family owned and family run company called A Day in the West. Originally, our tour was to take place at a location about 5-10 minutes from our Air B and B, but unfortunately they had some kind of trouble with their van, the one that was due to pick us up to take us to the riding location, and ultimately they needed us to go to a much further location on our own set of wheels. We had rented a convertible, so we were happy to take a little cruise, however, this added a lot of time to our journey to and fro, and therefore disabled us from doing much else in the way of activities after the tour. The new location was far from authentic, as it shared a parking lot and geographic lot with an exotic zoo park of sorts. Regardless, the family who ran the tour was charming, friendly, and fascinating. We learned about the history of Arizona, shared some laughs in response to some old gun slinging, cowboy jokes bellowed by our cowboy guides, and clip clopped through hilly, dusty desert back country. I am not sure why, but they put me on their biggest horse, John. He was a trusty gentleman.

After our ride we were all hungry and ready for happy hour. We had originally slated a few other touristic possibilities- the ghost town of Jerome and the Tlaqapaque Shopping Village, but due to the long travel to get to horse back riding, we nixed those plans and instead headed to a resort my brother had stayed at and highly recommended called Enchantment. If you’re more of a luxury traveler, like my dear older brother, I highly recommend staying at Enchantment Resort. The grounds are perfectly manicured and the dining options are top notch. We got a table at Ti Gavo, and ordered with reckless abandon. I pretty much don’t ever do this but the nachos we had were such a divine creation of southwestern fare that I asked the server if they were willing to give the recipe, to which the chef shockingly obliged! I am yet to attempt recreating this dish, however, because the salsa alone is a 10 step recipe with exotic ingredients. This is a testament to the attention and quality that goes in to the food and drinks at Enchantment. We had a giggly happy hour of indulgences before deciding we needed to head back to the Air B and B so Al and I could pack up for our crazy early flight the next day out of Phoenix, and so we could get ready for our lavish dinner out at Cress on Oak Creek.

 

If you’re traveling to Sedona and enjoy fine dining, do yourself a favor and make a reservation at Cress on Oak Creek. I can honestly say, our experience at Cress on Oak Creek is in my top five, if not number one, best dinners of my life. Nestled along the embankment of the creek of Oak Creek Canyon, Cress is the crowning jewel of the luxurious L’Auberge Spa and Resort. From the lobby, to the bathrooms, to the way guests are escorted to their tables, this establishment oozes with polished sophistication. The service: impeccable. The setting: enchanting. The food: experiential. Luckily, our candlelit table hugged the creek’s edge, and still under the spell of that full, desert moon, the tranquil waters ran silvery. Each of our five courses was equally artistic, unique in flavors and aesthetics, and, for lack of a better word, delicious. Being our last evening and one of the best meals of our lives, we indulged in a leisurely dinner of 2-3 hours time. It was the shiny, sparkly, moonlit bow that wrapped up such a welcome gift to the mind, body, and spirit.

As I drove us to Phoenix before dawn the next morning, I thought about how this trip allowed me to self indulge my past, savor and admire the present, and glean a, likely completely inaccurate, glimpse into the future ;).