Prologue: An Unimaginable Reality Inspires Recollections of an Imagined Past
“I wish it need not have happened in my time,” said Frodo.
“So do I,” said Gandalf, “and so do all who live to see such times. But that is not for them to decide. All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.” -J.R.R. Tolkien, The Fellowship of the Ring
Perhaps if I penned this post a month ago, a cheerier Lord of the Rings quote would have felt more appropriate, but due to my habit of skillfully neglecting to write about significant events in my life in a timely fashion, I am now recollecting our grandest adventure to spritely New Zealand during a less than cheery time, the time of Corona. Today marks day 21 of our country’s quarantine. I’ve whiled away the days like most of my fellow Americans: at home workouts, nature walks, reading, random projects around the house that prior to having limitless time would have felt like weekend nuisances, Netflix, drinking, Facetiming, and drinking. Corona swept the globe at the heels of one of the darkest times I’ve experienced in my personal life, so neglecting this post was both procrastination due to fear of doing this subject inadequate justice and due to idling in an emotionally numb neutral. I won’t get into it, but, there are my excuses. All this is to say that I wasn’t mentally ready to reflect, to reminisce, to explore reaches of my mind that hailed brighter and lighter days. Suddenly, however, day 14 of quarantine arrived and I found myself envious of winged creatures. I am fortunate to live on a lake, and with Spring unfolding her colors like a watercolor painting, the natural sprawl outside our window has been teeming with life. Nature has been abuzz and I’ve found myself following the flight patterns of Swallows, hawks, and Cardinals, wistfully imagining where they might be headed and what it might feel like to be tickled by the clouds. On day 13 I made the mistake of thinking ahead, deigning to step outside the mentality of one-day-at -a-time, and boy was I sorry. It evoked feelings of claustrophobia. Stay in the day, Hannah, I said to myself as a couple of Bluebirds settled on my deck railing, mocking me with their dippy head tilts and social proximity. If thinking ahead sends me down a panic spiral, why not think behind? If freedom and wide open spaces is what your heart seeks most right now, why not mind travel back to verdant hills as far as the eye can see, sheep bleating in a hypnotizing chorus, and the sweet smell of wild Lupine growing like an untamable blaze alongside river banks and creeks? The ability to imagine is one of the primary abilities we possess that distinguishes us from animals, and right now the future is unimaginable, so I will imagine the past. I will imagine one of the most naturally wondrous places I’ve ever explored, which helps me remember one thing I know for certain, one thing that has proven to thrive in the absence of the human need to continuously expand, move, occupy, control. That one thing I know for certain is, in the words of Chris Martin, we live in a beautiful world.
Trip Details
This adventure was Alex’s baby. For nearly a year, he spent evenings researching, making phone calls, and drafting our robust trip down under. Ultimately, he shaped this masterpiece, our itinerary. Truly, he could sell this itinerary, but similarly to how I don’t write my blog necessarily for an audience or for any sort of personal commerce, Alex doesn’t plan our travels for any audience besides us or any purpose in mind other than fulfilling our shared wanderlust. Disclaimer: we did the majority of what was planned in the itinerary, but not all of it. In the subsequent “chapters” I’ll chronologically detail the trip day by day. Overall, our itinerary was ambitious to say the least, and by the end of this vacation, I needed a vacation. Would I say this trip was relaxing? That’s a resounding, hell no. I would describe this trip as accomplishing, both physically and mentally. This trip was densely packed with strenuous hikes. It was our biggest hiking trip to date, and looking back, I wouldn’t have had it any other way. New Zealand needs to be taken in afoot; heart pumping on overdrive, thighs burning, a little sweat on your brow, heaving for breath, and craning your head every direction to drink in, no guzzle in, the impossibly beautiful panoramas. New Zealand was a bucket list destination for us. Alex and I have both always fancied the fanciful, which has of course included the Tolkein canon. Rewatching the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit trilogies prior to the trip was a must. Beyond this fanciful draw, some of our favorite destinations have included Switzerland, Iceland, the Pacific Northwest, and Hawaii, and New Zealand was kind of like a hybrid of all four. Add in the whimsy of picturing hobbits, dwarves, and elves frolicking amidst the bowling greens and craggy mountain sides, well, it’s a destination worth traveling 20 plus hours to reach in our book. And speaking of our book, so it shall begin, in a hole in the ground… kidding… the story begins with me, Hannah Baggins, fretting about the length of the flight and leaving the fur babies behind.
Chapter 1: Air, City, Sea, and Vines
The Flight, Auckland, and Waiheke Island, North Island
I won’t go into rich detail about the flights, but I will report that the flight ended up being the most relaxing part of our trip. No joke. We took United from Dulles to LAX, which partners with New Zealand Air, and then New Zealand Air from LAX to Auckland. New Zealand Air is a dream. The aircraft was spacious and spotless, and the service was seamless. The flight attendants looked like supermodels and their accents and smiles made you feel like you were in a Disney movie. We had an extensive library of brand new movie releases, TV shows, and music that could have kept us entertained for days. The food was decent and the wine was excellent. I went from dreading the flight to savoring it, I truly felt pampered on our 14 hour leg in coach. I would certainly fly New Zealand Air again.
Here are a few things to note and to pack to make your air travel and airport logistics smooth:
Noise cancelling headphones. I was new to these and boy did they make all the difference for sleeping and entertainment viewing. I borrowed a pair from Alex’s co-worker. Alex loves his Bose that I got him for his birthday.
An accessible toiletry kit with the following: Toothbrush, toothpaste, and floss
Face wipes
Hand sanitizer
Gas X. You know how on flights the air pressure can seriously mess with your stomach? Well, I highly recommend taking Gas X just prior to wheels up. I didn’t have a single stomach issue on our flights and I credit this proactive approach.
Sheet face masks. I know this is a bit shameless, but I cannot encourage others enough to try using a face sheet mask when in flight. The stuffy air pressure on a long flight leaves my skin feeling dry and puffy. Using sheet masks made me feel fresh and rejuvenated.
Essential oils and rose water spray. A light misting of my rose water spray was also such a little gift to my skin during the long air time. Rubbing some lavender oil on my wrists before “bed time” and also using my “deep relax” roller ball essential oil on my temples were two rituals that evoked calm aromatherapy.
Slippers. I am one of those people who hates wearing shoes, especially on long car rides or on flights. I don’t, however, like to be the person who goes barefoot and grosses others out, so I opt for a happy medium which is a discrete slipper approach. My mother-in-law got me some fantastic little slippers that are so light and thin and hug your feet just like socks. They’re lined with a super comfy wool that kept my tootsies cushioned and temperate.
A leg sling. I will never travel again without this bad boy. You clip the sling around the tray table, and it hangs down, creating a hammock for you to prop your feet into. It’s a MUST for shorties like me. It helps with circulation, knee pain, and promotes general comfort.
Neck pillow. I like the neck pillow I painstakingly researched, but I am yet to say I love a single neck pillow I have tried. It’s tricky to find your soul neck pillow. This one I got is the best I’ve tried to date, though it is slightly awkward to adjust and makes drinking whilst wearing it a bit difficult. I also felt as if the design is engineered to elicit excessive drooling.
Auckland
I am not a city girl, I never have been, but I must say, I found Auckland to be a charming mix of concrete, crowds, and commerce. It had a bit of a European energy to it and somewhat reminded me of cities I’ve traveled to in Spain with its commercial modernity gridlocked amidst lush parks lined with tropical vegetation. It’s a hub of life and noise harboring the murky aquamarine Pacific, which cloaks the city in a salty brine and cuts the stronger northern heat with a delicate ocean breeze. We arrived into Auckland on Friday, December 20th, so many Kiwis were either already on holiday or on the brink of holiday. There was a palpable celebratory energy circuiting the city. We stayed at the Pullman Hotel in the city, which was comfortable, clean, and extremely convenient. Al sprung for a harbor front view. Al and I didn’t feel up to exploring city sights such as Sky Tower or the War Memorial Museum, Waiheke Island instead for winery hopping sounded much more appealing.
Waiheke Island
The ferry in Auckland is highly accessible and gets you over to Waiheke Island in about 40 minutes. There are cute and trendy eateries lining the wharf, so when we missed the 1:00 ferry, we parked ourselves at a patio for oysters and rose while we waited for the 1:30 ferry.
The ferry ride itself is a lovely, albeit windy, transport that takes you past little uninhabited islands atop the restless sea that grows increasingly turquoise the further you bob away from the city’s harbor. Once we arrived to Waiheke, we decided to take in the island by foot, which proved to be an aerobic experience. Waiheke reminded us of Hawaii with its tropical temperature, beach house architecture, healthy eats, and hilly terrain. Before hitting our first winery, we stopped for lunch at a hipster cafe called Wai Kitchen that perched atop a two story stretch of retail that all looked out onto the pristine stretch of sand and surf below. We both got artful poke dishes while we basked in Waiheke’s sun-drenched glory. It was vacation at its prime.
After reviewing the map, we decided to take advantage of Waiheke’s reliable public transit, their bus system, which was offering free services that day and night to deter drunk driving. I guess the Friday before Christmas holidays is a notorious one for ripping it in NZ, as we discovered for ourselves to be true later that evening. We took the bus to Stony Ridge Winery where we walked a long dirt path that took us past a parked helicopter and spit us out in front of a stony cottage wrapped in ivy. We soon learned an entire company had rented out the main dining and tasting room for their Christmas party, so we were edged out to the outdoor space that overlooked the rolling green hills and vibrant stretches of grapes. The weather in NZ is dynamic to say the least. The North Island is certainly warmer than the South Island, but both can dramatically shift from clear and sunny to cloudy, chilly, and misty within seconds. The weather had taken a turn for the windy and misty as we situated ourselves on the deck overlooking the hills. We dressed accordingly (always bring a rain jacket with you in NZ), and our glasses of Merlot helped to warm us. The outdoor space is quite modern with various lounges arranged throughout the deck space, a built in sound system, and several intentionally engineered social media backdrops. It was clear that Stony Ridge targets a younger, rowdier crowd, which is an interesting juxtaposition to its rustic farmhouse facade and interior.
We waited for about 30 minutes at the bus stop of Stony Ridge before boarding and heading off to our next winery: Cable Bay. We got dropped off about ¾ of a mile from Cable Bay, and though it was still spitting rain and misty, the walk alongside hills of grape vines, the color of new spring leaves, provided us a visual feast. Cable Bay boasts award winning wines and pristine hilltop views. With its abundance of slate, sleek, and clean lines, its modern aesthetic reminded me of the Blue Lagoon spa in Iceland, minimalist and cold. We bypassed the cavernous tasting room and instead got a table in the dining room with an optimal view. Unfortunately, the mist and fog was so dense, our views of the ocean below were intermittent. Regardless, our server allowed us to do a pick-your-own wine tasting at our table and the award winning wine was bar none. Our favorites were a dry rose and of course, Sauvignon Blanc.
A little tipsy and palettes piqued, we sauntered, yet again in the misting rain, over to Mudbrick, our final destination of our day and my favorite place on Waiheke Island. Mudbrick is known for its fine dining garden to table experience, breathtaking views, and wine. Ideal for weddings, Mudbrick’s pastoral campus offers a wedding venue ballroom, a well manicured vineyard, a rustic chalet dining room, sleeping accommodations, and an unending garden brimming with lavender, rosemary, and other herbs, all of which are featured in both the cocktails and dinner menu. The hilltop property is nestled atop a hill that slopes down onto a green cliffside that drops off into the mystic Pacific. Our table seemed to center over a hornlike landmass that bejeweled the arm of the ocean that kissed the cliffs. We indulged in pre-dinner martinis, champagne, and an amuse-bouche on the house, before sinking our teeth into our main courses: fresh fish of the day for me and a New Zealand staple for Alex: lamb. Too stuffed for dessert, I talked Al into taking a shot of Patron instead. I admit, I tend to get a little over zealous on my first night of vacation. After dinner, the host called a cab for us to get us to the last ferry of the day back to Auckland. While we waited for our cab, Alex and I snuck up the stairs, which were roped off (oops), to take in the final drippings of a fiery sunset atop the restaurant balcony. We then shared our cab with a lovely couple from England, enjoying their honeymoon for a full 4 weeks in New Zealand. We talked with them for the windy ride to the harbor as well as the full 40 minute ferry ride back to the city. We all had a laugh over the drunken shenanigans that were taking place aboard the final ferry. The ferry was packed with tourists and Kiwis alike, well lubricated from their Christmas holiday celebrations. We had an early flight out to Christchurch on the South Island the next morning, and after copious glasses of wines, not to mention the 20 hours of travel, our bed was beckoning. We made sure our things were ready to go for the next morning and called it a night at around midnight.
Chapter 2: Home Sweet RV & Living in What Dreams May Come
The RV & Lake Tekapo, South Island
I have dreamed of traveling by RV ever since I was about 5 years old. As a child, I always had a fascination, obsession really, with anything miniature or fort-like. Major influences likely included A Goofy Movie, many a late 80s/early 90s family vacation movie, and The Swiss Family Robinson. Anything that was a dwarf version of a home or an element of domestic life, I wanted it; my friend’s little shed playhouse, my neighbor’s Barbie hot wheels convertible, my grandparents’ trailer home, I could not get enough of these microcosms of domesticity. An RV has it all in one, which is another thing I’ve always been obsessed with: convenience. A mini house that takes you A to B? Need it, want it, have to have it. I have had a little piggy bank for years that says “RV money” on it and ever since Alex and I met, whenever we pass by an RV for sale, I beg him to consider. You get the idea I think, I have truly dreamed of traveling by RV, and at long last, Alex and New Zealand were granting me my wish.
We left the Pullman Hotel at 6 AM for the airport, which was just enough time, if not more than enough to get us to our gate for our short flight to Christchurch on the South Island. The efficiency of the airport was pretty good, with lines being a bit voluminous for weighing the luggage, likely due to it being so close to Christmas. A word to the wise: the NZ airports are big sticklers for luggage weight, especially on the island hopper flights. Therefore, as I mentioned in the packing suggestion list, a luggage scale can save you time and money. Nonetheless, we were to our gate in under an hour, and made it to Christchurch in under an hour and a half. The Christchurch airport reminded me of the Reykjavik airport, very modern. Alex booked our RV through Wilderness Motorhomes, based out of Auckland and Christchurch. We had an incredibly positive experience with Wilderness and highly recommend booking through them. They provide a thorough walk-through of how to operate the motorhome, though if it were me and not Alex driving I would have needed a week long course. They also provide maps and one on one consultation in terms of mapping out your route, and hook you up with an app that tells you about some off-the-beaten-path spots where you can freedom camp. Additionally, due to Alex’s adept negotiation skills, our concierge threw in a couple of bottles of wine.
Alex is fearless, it’s a quality I have always been attracted to in him because, well, I am not. Though driving a 21 foot rig on the left side of the road might not immediately get the adrenaline pumping, let me tell you, it was an initial terror inducing experience that left me speechless and Alex needing a change of shorts. Though we found it pretty gray and charmless, Christchurch is a well populated city, which meant learning to drive on the opposite side of the road that we are accustomed to and learning to maneuver an enormous vehicle amidst well-trafficked roads, traffic circles, and the worst of all, a crowded strip mall parking lot. Drenched in sweat after a near-failed attempt at finding a parking spot, we finally made our way into Countdown Grocery Store, which is extremely close to the airport, where we stocked up on a ton of food and alcohol. Once we got the food stored away and secured in the adequately spacious refrigerator, I was tempted to nest, but Alex was feeling antsy to hit the road for our 3 hour drive to Lake Tekapo, so we ditched that popsicle stand and hit it for our first, of many, RV road trips.
Once we got outside of Christchurch, the landscape quickly changed to green, open, and rural. The first hour out of Christchurch was pretty unremarkable. In all honesty, the landscape didn’t look much different from back home, save the countless pastures of fluffy, ruddy sheep. However, about an hour and half out, the roads became increasingly windy and narrow and the flat plains became a figment of the past. As the ride became more mountainous, I was reminded of drives through California and Colorado, but once we got closer to Lake Tekapo, I soon discovered that this terrain was incomparable. About 10 minutes outside of the township sits the largest spread of vibrant Lupine, a colorful fragrant wildflower that decorates the banks of riverbeds and creeks throughout NZ. Though Lupine is said to be invasive, it’s one hell of a beautiful weed, and I for one, find the utmost beauty in the untamable. We parked the RV on the side of the road, as everyone else had, and climbed over the fence to wander through the hip high field of pink, purple, and white Lupine. Al and I walked deep into the field to escape the other tourists snapping selfies and operating drones, and the deeper we got into the ocean of pinks and purples, the stronger the perfume of floral sweetness became. The entire scene reminded me of the movie What Dreams May Come, where the characters are living inside oil paintings of the afterlife, rich with vivid color and fantasy. The sky was such a crisp blue against the green floor of the fields adorned by the technicolor wildflowers that delicately danced in the breeze. It was an unforgettable scene and one of the highlights of the entire trip.
After our Lupine field frolic, our journey into surreality continued once Lake Tekapo came into sight. We checked into our powered lakeview site at Lake Tekapo Motels & Holiday Park where I was at long last able to nest and organize. Another huge perk of renting an RV is that you can fully unpack and have everything at your disposal at any time. We are used to hopping from place to place on our vacations, which comes with the stress and time-suck of unpacking and repacking. An RV solves this frustration, as well as pesky detours like needing to stop to go pee or stop for snacks, everything is with you 24/7. Gosh I just love an RV. Okay, back to Lake Tekapo. The lakes in NZ look like the Caribbean ocean: bright, turquoise and aquamarine, but instead of palm trees lining the shores, you get a perimeter of mountains, some hunter green and some snow-capped and colossal. Once we were settled, we decided to hike to Mount John Observatory, which we could access easily by taking a stroll alongside the banks of the lake. The trail-head to Mount John Observatory began at the base of a steep hill that runs parallel to the Lake Tekapo Holiday Park hot springs, which offers a resort-like lido deck. If we had more time at Lake Tekapo, I definitely would have wanted to reserve the hot springs star gazing package they offer, where you can float in the hot springs, sipping cocktails, and enjoy the wondrous beauty of a star strewn sky. We only had one night at Lake Tekapo and by the time we hit the Mount John Observatory trail, it was already 7:30 PM. The incredible thing about NZ during their summer is that sunset typically doesn’t occur until around 9 PM, which gives you plenty of time to squeeze in every bit of activity you can. We often didn’t have dinner until 10 PM due to this factor. Mostly uphill, the Mount John Observatory trail provides a peaceful retreat through beech woods, spindly alpines, and cheerful wildflowers. All along the way up we were greeted by skittish bunnies, collecting treasures and then hopping off to hide behind the tall grass known to Kiwis as tussock. As we neared the summit, the trees cleared out and the terrain became rocky and arid. We hiked to what we felt was the very tippy top of the summit and took a seat atop a rock pile that overlooked the shimmering lake below.
The sun began to set so we made our way back down the mountain and walked onto the beach of the lake to skip some rocks before heading back to camp for our first, of many, home cooked meals in the RV. We dined al fresco at our site’s picnic table that overlooked the lake shore and we made best friends with a differently-abled duck who only had one functioning leg and stood like a flamingo. We named him Duckfoot, and he stayed by our side for the rest of the night.
Chapter 3: Trekking Below A Glacier & Freedom Camping
Mount Cook & Lake Pukaki, South Island
The next morning brought with it some morning sunshine and then unstoppable gales of wind. We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast in the RV and then took care of the precautionary RV chores: emptied the gray water, filled the fresh water, and emptied the pee pee and poo poo cassette… a glamorous joy of RV life that we came to know well. We were heading to Mount Cook National Park for our first longer hike on The Hooker Valley track. Along our drive we first stopped at the New Zealand Alpine Lavender Farm where we purchased souvenirs for our family members, a candle for the RV (we rapidly learned that the RV can take on a sulfur-like smell, especially after using the bathroom on board), as well as some hot lavender tea. The wind was whipping through the plains, sending shivering waves up and down the neat rows of billowy lavender.
Our next stop was Peter’s Lookout on Lake Pukaki, where we marveled at the delicate Caribbean colored water upstaged by the humbling snow-capped mountains. Similarly to Highway 1/The PCH in California, the road hugged Lake Pukaki for optimal views all along our one hour drive road trip.
When we parked at Mount Cook National Park’s crowded parking lot, our first order of business was to fuel up with some lunch. This is another reason to love an RV: we could always prepare a lovely lunch just before hopping on the trail! As we ate and mentally prepared for our first longer trek, the wind shook the RV with violent force and sent the loose sands of the gravel lot raining across the roof. Though this trek is an easy one in terms of ascent, we knew it was going to have the added challenge of harsh elements. We layered up and wore sunglasses as to prevent the loose sand from stinging our eyes, and set out for the Hooker Valley Track, the most trafficked hike of our entire trip. Though it was densely packed with fellow tourists, this hike is ripe with natural wonder. It took us about 3 hours to complete the 6.8 miles, elevation gain of only 813 ft. I would rate it very easy. The trail winds through the valley of Mount Cook, a rocky, sandy terrain dressed with native flora and fauna. One of the most unique and fun aspects of the trail is that you get to cross three suspended, swinging bridges that take you over the rushing alpine streams that feed into Hooker Lake, home to lonely icebergs and the point of return for the track. Though the winds chilled me to the bone, Mount Cook, encrusted by Mueller Glacier, loomed ahead, distracting me from the biting winds. Delicate waterfalls cascade down the face of green and gray thrusts of mountain that barricade the right side of the trail, creating mesmerizing views with every step. All in all, though this hike was super crowded and the wind was fierce, it offers such a glittering array of natural phenomena that I think it’s well worth it, not to mention the fun swinging bridges!
We returned to the RV coated in a film of dirt dust and wind-burnt, and debated hiking the Sealy Tarns track, a much shorter hike, however, far more strenuous as it has a 1,778 ft. elevation gain with 2,200 steps. Peeling off our filmy layers and relaxing with a bottle of champagne ended up winning out. We had reservations at a campground near Lake Pukaki, but decided to be adventurous and try out a freedom camping spot our RV concierge had recommended called Hayman Road. This ended up being the best possible decision! After that well trafficked hike, we were hungry for some solitude and Hayman Road delivered all the peace and solitude this true introvert could ever crave! We picked a site that was perched atop a little buff which overlooked a sloping hill of Lupine that led down to shimmering Lake Pukaki, which is of course lined by snow-capped mountains. We set up the folding picnic table and chairs that came with the RV, a charcuterie board, and popped some champagne. After a few glasses of bubbly, we ventured down through the wild Lupine and boggy tall grasses to reach the pebbled beach of the lake where we skipped rocks and climbed trees. The sun began to set, casting a lavender and gold hue across the entire landscape. We returned to the picnic table to drink in the last sips of the champagne as well as the last drops of sunset light. We ended our day with another home cooked feast in the cozy RV, and slept well knowing we were the only creatures in existence for miles and miles.
Chapter 4: A Town that Literally Stole My Heart… Like… I Couldn’t Breathe
Queenstown, South Island, NZ
Feeling refreshed after our retreat into peaceful serenity on Lake Pukaki, we got up early and hit the dusty Hayman Road which took us back out to some civilization, well more like life, it took us back out to life, mostly in the form of ruddy sheep. Regardless, we were back on the grid, winding through the endless green, destination: Queenstown. The name itself connotes prestige, doesn’t it? Though the drive is 3 hours and 15 minutes from Lake Pukaki, we had staked out some stopping points along the way which broke up the length quite nicely. Our first stop, Goldfield’s Mining Center, was a bit of a dud. Although there was a neat footbridge we could walk across to the mining center that spanned the Kawarau River, the scene was exceptionally touristy and overpriced. Nevertheless, it allowed us to stretch our legs and window shop. Just 30 minutes beyond Goldfield’s rests Arrowtown, a well-preserved mining town decked with ice cream parlors, souvenir shops, restaurants, bars, and luxury goods. It reminded me of many a miners town in Colorado, but like any square of NZ, there is the added bonus of natural grandeur. Sure, CO has lovely mountains, but the NZ mountains aren’t just a backdrop, they take on life. They’re the protagonists, not the setting. We found a shady spot to park the RV, which actually was adjacent to the babbling Arrow River, which functioned as the Brunien River in Lord of the Rings, where Arwen summoned a flood in the form of a stampede of horses. Arrowtown was packed with tourists and locals, picnicking on the various green spaces dressed with strung lights and gaudy Christmas decorations, afterall, it was the 23rd of December. We ambled down the main drag, bobbing in and out of every shop, and ultimately purchasing the bulk of our souvenir treasures for our loved ones. Recommended by one of the friendly shopkeepers, we finished our visit in lovely Arrowtown at The Chop Shop for lunch. The Chop Shop offered a sunny little rooftop, equipped with ridiculous head-wear to protect guests from the ruthless NZ summer sun. We happily took the bird’s eye view al fresco and enjoyed our fresh lunch in over-sized sombreros.
Arrowtown was enough luxuriating for us, we were hungry for more adventure! Good thing our next stop was Queenstown: home of the adrenaline rush. Adrenaline junkies from all over the globe flock to Queenstown to dabble in heart-racing exploits such as bungee jumping, sky-diving, hang-gliding, canyoning, luge rides, mountain swings, and perilous hiking. When our RV barreled into the town limits, the first thing we saw were countless orange winged specks with microscopic dangling legs gracefully sailing above us. We soon discovered these were hang-gliders, a popular Queenstown activity. We also immediately heard howls of terror and exhilaration, a permanent fixture of the Queenstown summer soundscape. We checked in to Queenstown Lakeview Holiday Park where our concierge gave us the extensive skinny on all of the recreational opportunities at our fingertips, before we settled into our powered site amidst a sea of closely sandwiched motorhomes. Though we didn’t have a lake view and we were packed in like a sardine, the Lakeview Holiday Park lives at the base of The Remarkables, the truly remarkable (see what I did there) range of mountains in Queenstown that are home to unparalleled skiing slopes in the winter and endless outdoor recreation in the summer. The park is also steps away from the heart of the action in town. We immediately changed into hiking gear and set out for Queenstown Hill, a 4.3 mile out and back hike with 1,305 feet of elevation gain. The walk to get to the origin of the trail is a heart-pumping challenge in itself. The hills in Queenstown are so steep it was breathlessly laughable. Our legs were burning after our first ⅛ of a mile just to the base of the trail! Though we skipped the gradual warm-up for our legs, our eyes experienced a whelming entree of the Queenstown landscape. Lining the steep climb in front of us were pristine homes and glamorous resorts, and falling into focus below spanned the bohemian, yet sophisticated sprawl of Queenstown, the jewel encrusting the crown of land surrounding the sapphire waters of Lake Wakatipu. Out of breath, Al and I both couldn’t stop repeating how much we loved this place already. We were immediately smitten.
The Queenstown Hill trail took us through shaded and fragrant forest, endless stretches of wildflowers, and ultimately, a breathtaking view of the city and Lake Wakatipu below. Though it’s not all too long a hike, it’s a steady incline, and in portions where there is little shade, we worked up a sweat. I’d rate the hike moderate, but there were moments where I was huffing and puffing. The view at the top and the rich natural versatility of the trail made this hike one of my favorites of our entire trip. We took an abundance of selfies and photos, trying fecklessly to somehow capture the surreal beauty of the landscape, before we made our way back down the hill, which always proves to be much easier on the lungs, harder on the knees.
Sweaty and dusty, we went straight into town to explore and get drinks and dinner. NZ in general is a judgement-free, no frills destination when it comes to attire. Everywhere we went we saw at least one barefooted Kiwi going about his or her day, so rocking dusty hiking boots and tank tops was of little concern to us. The city of Queenstown has a Brooklyn meets European vibe. There are bistro lit squares, trendy retail, friendly alleyways with twinkling lights, hipster coffee shops and bars, and bustling restaurants with live music and outdoor seating. And then there is the waterfront, an understated carnival of food stands, fancy hotels, luxury bakeries, a loud barge, and seafood restaurants overhanging the lapping lip of the lake. An enormous willow creates a vibrant green umbrella that functions as the waterfront’s centerpiece. Though it’s a colorful swath of humanity, none of it upstages the beauty of The Remarkables and Lake Wakatipu. We put our name in for an outdoor table at Public Kitchen and Bar, which has the best real estate on the waterfront, and then got drinks at a cute little beer place called Atlas Beer Cafe. Our dinner at Public Kitchen and Cafe was one of my favorite dining experiences of the trip; we ordered a bunch of things to share, including my first encounter with NZ green lipped mussels. Green lipped mussels are HUGE and bursting with flavor! Mussels are one of my favorite seafoods, so I was in heaven. We sat at that table overlooking the water and mountainous landscape for hours, absorbing the Queenstown vibe, because Queenstown is its own vibe and one that cannot be replicated, only appreciated.
That night, Alex gave me a surprise Christmas present early. We had agreed we wouldn’t do gifts because this adventure of a lifetime was our gift to one another, but Al knows it’s the small things that make me sublimely happy, so he surprised me with a set of LED Christmas lights with which to decorate the interior of the RV for some twinkly Christmas magic! We spent the rest of that evening taping up the lights and testing out the different colors and blinking patterns. They made the RV extra cozy and it began to look a lot like Christmas.
We woke early the next morning in high anticipation of the physical exertion awaiting us. I made a strong French press of coffee before we suited up in layers and hiking boots for our first strenuous hike of the trip: Ben Lomond. We took the Skyline Gondola to reach Bob’s Peak, which was not even ¼ of a mile from our holiday park. You can hike to Bob’s Peak, but it’s a hell of a warm-up for a hell of a hike. I am still thanking Alex for making that decision to have us gondola up to Bob’s Peak because Ben Lomond proved to be the most challenging hike I have ever conquered. The gondola ride also proved to be a fun bit of tourism in itself. As you glide up the mountain, you pass by one of the bungee jumping platforms and get to see the fearless and the fearful swan diving into the clearing of the wooded mountain before springing back up, all the while shrieking and howling. At Bob’s Peak, there is a chic, glass enclosed lounge and restaurant overlooking the mountains, the gondola, and the fun luge ride track that spires Bob’s Peak. We stopped in the sleek facility atop Bob’s Peak for a bathroom stop before hitting the dusty trail of Ben Lomond, a 7.1 mile out and back hike with 3,622 feet of elevation gain.
The trail immediately offers a diverse landscape to will you forward: piney forest to start, then sweeping hillsides where the clouds cling to the peaks, then breaks of overlooks where the deep blue of the Wakatipu Lake pools in between the wrinkled mountains. The colors, the vastness, and the quiet reminded me of my vitality. The sound of my hiking boots padding onto the dirt path one foot in front of the other became my hypnotizing beat, while the gentle rush of the misty winds coursing over the arid hillsides became the harmony. I’ve always found hiking to be a spiritual endeavor, one that aligns mind, body, and soul. Ben Lomond felt unending. It pushed me beyond my physical limits. There were moments when I was angry with the trail, moments when I felt elated, and moments when I fell into the abyssal rapture of my own thoughts and memories. Alex, surprisingly, was powering his way up the mountain, going much faster than me. I say surprisingly because Alex does not engage in any cardiovascular activity. And though at first this frustrated me, I was soon reminded of something Michelle Obama said to Oprah about the advice she continually gives to her daughters and that is to “walk their own walk.” Now I know Michelle was speaking abstractly, but in this moment, her advice resonated literally. I had to walk my own walk, define my own rhythm, and not measure my walk against that of anyone else’s. Alex was carving out his own rhythm, his own walk, and our intentions for our hikes were likely different as well. I dug deep into what my intention was for my hike and quickly arrived at the answer: to be here, to be present in this moment, to feel my vitality. As if the universe was listening, I passed a post at that moment and carved into the post were the words, “You are here.” Like I said, hiking can be a spiritual endeavor.
Ben Lomond has a couple false peaks, which, though I was walking my walk, frustrated me. I actually felt angry, like the mountain was betraying me, taunting my physical limitations. We took a few breaks, but not all too many. We passed by fellow hikers who all seemed to have the same look in their eyes that seemed to say, are we there yet?! When we finally reached the summit, I was so out of breath and exhausted I felt like I was going to throw up if I opened my mouth to speak. Exhausted hikers were spilled across the smooth and jagged slabs of rock that were drenched with sunshine, sharing a summit snack or taking a much needed nap before contemplating the descent. Al and I found a comfortable spot amidst our fellow conquerors and started in on the lunch we had packed. I had to take slow and steady bites, my heart rate was still sky high and breaths were coming in shallow and ragged. I laid down to chew one small bite of my wrap and Al snapped photographic evidence of me actually falling asleep mid chew. I have never felt that level of exhaustion before, and I consider myself fairly physically fit. I run a lot, have run a half-marathon, and take a ton of different conditioning classes. Ben Lomond was a physical test I will never forget. As my heart rate came down, I sat up and began to recognize the view before us. Though a cliche word to use, I cannot think of any other word besides unreal. It all looked so unreal. It reminded me of the topographic maps we made in elementary school using playdough. As we admired the fruits of our labor, a cheeky Kea bird, which are roughly the size of a hawk but have a beautiful greenish sheen to them, dropped in on the summit, clutched a power bar straight out of one of the hiker’s pockets, and flew away with it. A different Kea approached the scene and started pecking at another hiker’s backpack as he was napping. We all got a laugh out of this as the Kea inched closer and closer to the hiker. Eventually, we had to wake up the hiker which resulted in disorientation for him, laughs from all of us, as the Kea tilted its head robotically when the hiker opened his eyes to discover this winged creature inches from his face. Hikers in NZ were so friendly. Several hikers atop the Ben Lomond summit shared their candy and snacks with everyone, which led to Alex’s new obsession with gummy worms.
Feeling revived and restored, we set back out for the descent, which proved to be much easier on the heart and lungs, but as stated earlier, a true test of the knees and feet. Come the final mile, our dogs were barking. I was no longer engrossed in my spiritual experience, I was only occupied with the thoughts of drinking an ice cold cider and peeling off my thick wool socks which now felt like they had bonded to my blisters. At long last, we reached the familiar piney woods of the trail’s origin, and I could have kissed the dirt path. Sweaty and dirty, we copped a table in the lounge with plush leather seats and ordered some well earned ciders. After our drinks, we decided to give the luge ride a try. I was worried I wasn’t going to be able to stand after those drinks, but sure enough, the body is resilient! Though touristy, the luge ride proved to be a bit of pure fun! We did it twice before calling it a day and queuing up for the gondola ride back down to the holiday park. It was about 6 PM by the time we got back to the RV where we took showers in the park’s facilities and then readied ourselves for another evening in town. Sore muscles and feet made the short jaunt into town feel much harder than it was, but we made it into town and parked ourselves at Finz, which was the neighboring restaurant to Public Kitchen and Bar, where we had dined the evening before. After a carb heavy meal, we stopped into a bar with excellent live music for a couple drinks. Queenstown had dropped several degrees that evening, so feeling sore and cold, I was ready to call it a night at around midnight. Getting into bed that evening under the twinkle of our Christmas lights, foot blisters cleaned and airing out, and legs at rest, was a heavenly close to a robust day of physical accomplishment.
Chapter 5: I’m Dreaming of an RV Christmas
Glenorchy to Milford, South Island, NZ
We weren’t crowding around an ornamented tree overseeing stacks of shiny gifts in our matching pajamas, but it couldn’t have felt more like Christmas to us when we awoke the next morning, Christmas Day, and readied the RV for our road trip to Milford Sound. To make the day even more exciting, we had plans to first take the scenic drive to Glenorchy to visit some notable filming locations from Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit. The drive to Glenorchy took us along the lip of Lake Wakatipu, through dense beech forest, and then down a rocky dirt path that divided pastures of white, fluffy sheep. We stopped at Bennet’s Bluff for nothing other than scenic admiration and then made our way to Glenorchy Wharf, a highly Instagrammable photo op crawling with tourists… like us. After Glenorchy Wharf we headed further into dense beech forest which was right about when I insisted we loudly blast the soundtrack from Lord of the Rings as it felt like we were going deeper and deeper into Mirkwood and potentially would be kidnapped by a gargantuan spider at any moment. We concluded our Glenorchy self-guided tour by stopping in Paradise AKA Isengard for you LOTR fans, AKA Beorn’s house for you Hobbit fans. Mount Earnslaw, which looms just above Paradise, functioned as the pathway for the Misty Mountains. We were geeking out to say the least. After our worthwhile dorky detour, we headed back towards Queenstown where we parked at an overlook near Bennett’s Bluff for a lake bluff picnic before embarking on the 4 hour, 30 minute road trip to Milford.
We had some stops planned for our trip to Milford, but unfortunately, they were closer to Milford which meant a sizable stretch of stopless road tripping. We played Christmas music and “Would You Rather?” to while away the hours, and before we knew it, we were parked roadside for our first stop: Mirror Lakes. On a clear day, Mirror Lakes would have been an incredible visage of the Earl Mountains mirrored in the small lakes that pool in the valley below. However, the skies were cloudy and spitting rain which blemished the mirror effect. Nonetheless, it was a great opportunity to stretch our legs. The real Christmas magic happened when we barreled through Homer Tunnel… I am still speechless thinking back to when we reemerged on the other side of Homer Tunnel to discover the sheer magnitude and wonder that is Fiordland. Geological gods thrusted their way skyward in every direction. Delicate waterfalls laced their way down the rock-faces, animating their ruthless dormancy. Alex and I opened our windows, mouths agape, to receive a misty baptism.
Shortly after the tunnel was The Chasm, a short walking track that takes you to some waterfalls that thunderously pound their way through swirly twirly rocks. When we parked at The Chasm, and marveled at the mountain range of Fiordland National Park before us, our eyes beheld a Christmas gift from Mother Nature: a glorious rainbow spanning the snow capped mountains. Hark! The Herald Angels sang… whatever that means. Feeling blessed by Mother Nature, we set off on the short Chasm walking track. The Chasm is the result of the Cleddau River coursing down the Darran mountains and paving its way through a rocky valley. Over time, the water gathered strength and momentum to create thunderous waterfalls that ultimately sculpted the surrounding rocks and crannies of the valley into nautilus patterns and smooth basins. It’s absolutely worth stopping to be entranced by the electrifying blue water mercilessly cascading down over the smoothed rocks. I would describe it as aggressively zen.
Once we hopped back into the RV and lost all cellular service, it dawned on us that it was getting late, it was Christmas Day, and we hadn’t yet checked into our holiday park. Dun, dun, dun. Anxiously, we pulled up to the gorgeous rainforest setting of Milford Sound Rainforest Campervan Park. Truly, Mother Nature and the Ghost of Christmas Past were looking out for us as the park manager was literally closing the visitor center when we pulled up. She graciously set us up with our site number, passcodes, and map and wished us a Happy Christmas. We pulled into our cozy rainforest powered site, turned on our Christmas lights, and made a Christmas feast to the hypnotic rhythm of rain on an RV roof.
We had a 10:45 A.M. cruise through Milford Sound on Cruise Milford. We were instructed to arrive an hour early at the Milford Sound Visitor Center for check-in. I’m glad we heeded this advice because not only was it hard to find parking at the lot that is a 10 minute walk from the visitor center, but the visitor center was packed! Arriving early allowed us to gain our bearings and secure one of the best seats on our boat. I wore layers and my rain jacket, as it was spitting rain and the temperature dropped, especially once we were cruising the sound. Cruise Milford offered a comfortable, heated ship with flush toilets and complimentary hot tea, hot cocoa, waters, and biscuits. Tempting as the heat of the interior was on this raw day, Alex and I sat on the upper exterior deck because we decided getting up close and personal with waterfalls and wildlife trumped human comfort. Barricaded by cliffs and mountain peaks decorated with waterfalls, Milford Sound is a fiord that was carved by glaciers during the ice ages. There is no other word for Milford Sound besides enchanting. Waterfalls melt from the cliffs of gray and green into the dark waters of the sound below, as nature goes about its business: birds flitted from mountain ridge treetops while seals barked and playfully floated on their backs. Seeing seals, one of my all time favorite animals in the world, in the wild was enough for me, I’d about died and gone to heaven. Rudyard Kipling once described Milford Sound as the “eighth wonder of the world,” and that dude wrote Jungle Book so he’s seen some shit. I had high expectations for Milford Sound and it didn’t disappoint. When in NZ, it’s a must.
The cruise only lasted 1 hour and 45 minutes, so we were back in the RV by 12:45. As my best pal Jackie likes to say, the day was in diapers. We bid Milford Sound a loving adieu and then set out for the Key Summit Track just 30 minutes away. Still located in Fiordland, Key Summit Track is part of the Routeburn Track, one of the 10 Great Walks of NZ which connects Mount Aspiring National Park to Fiordland National Park. Key Summit is a magical half-day hike that only takes 3 hours as it is 4.8 miles out and back with 1,374 feet of elevation gain. Much of the hike took us through dense beech forest, cloaked with moss and some delicate waterfalls dribbling off the rock wall to our right. But the summit is the real treasure trove. The summit rewards hikers with panoramic views of snow capped mountaintops as well as a nature trail that ambles past alpine lakes. Key Summit ended up being an unassuming top hike of the trip.
After Key Summit we made our way out of Milford and headed south for Te Anau. We included Te Anau in our itinerary as a stopover, a place to spend the night before trekking to Wanaka. In retrospect, I think we should have gone back to Queenstown to spend another night before driving to Wanaka, or just sucked it up and gone straight from Milford to Wanaka. Te Anau was nothing much. It has a decent waterfront on Lake Te Anau, but the town isn’t anything to write home about. Our Holiday Park, Getaway Te Anau, was walking distance to the town, which is really just a main street lined with some chintzy shops and meager restaurants. Te Anau seemed to clearly be a stopover town for buses of tourists en route through Fiordland National Park. It functioned as a great place for replenishing groceries and going to bed early. I will give a shout out to the pizza joint where we had dinner al fresco, Naturally Fiordland Cafe; awesome pies and great cider selection.
Chapter 6: Discovering My Soul Hike
Wanaka, South Island, NZ
After deeply feeling my physical limitations on Ben Lomond, I was nervous for our next day hike we were pursuing in Wanaka, Roy’s Peak, a 9.7 mile out and back trail with 4,104 feet of elevation gain. I was psyching myself up the whole three hour drive from Te Anau to Wanaka, reading reviews on All Trails, playing pump up jams in the RV, and eating loads of Doritos to carb load. We got to ride through the outskirts of town a little bit as we made our way to Lake Outlet Holiday Park, and we quickly determined Wanaka to be a luxurious, affluent lake town, full of summer vacationers and second home owners. The staff at Lake Outlet Holiday Park were lovely and we had a lakeview powered site as well. Now feeling well versed in appropriate hiking gear and layers, we put on what had become our hiking uniforms and set right back out as soon as we checked in for Roy’s Peak. It was 3 PM when we got to the base of the trail and the reviews all said it takes about 6 hours to hike, so we knew we were risking possibly losing daylight on our descent, but that didn’t stop us. We were both raring for the challenge.
Honestly, this trail was love at first step. Though the first two miles are impossibly steep, they take you through alpine meadows strewn with wildflowers and tussock grasslands where dozens of sheep are grazing, waddling along, or playing with one another. We would turn a switchback and suddenly be joined by a baby sheep and its mama, or take a break on one of the inclines and witness two baby sheep playfully butting heads or trying to nurse on their mother.
Below us, which could be admired all along the way up and down, was Lake Wanaka surrounded by lush and wrinkly mountains. I think the other feature that made this hike so perfect was the time of day at which we hiked it. We crossed paths with only a handful of other hikers and we got to enjoy a golden hour descent. Al and I seemed to become more savvy with each hike we conquered in NZ, so this time around, we packed ciders in our packs for some celebratory summit libations. This trail is not easy, and maybe my Doritos psyche up worked, but it didn’t feel as deathly as Ben Lomond. I never grew bored with the trail or felt like it was monotonous. I never felt like I wanted to give up or that I was too out of breath to speak, I truly enjoyed every step I took on that hike. The wildflowers, the sheep, the peacefulness, the unobstructed and ever present views of Lake Wanaka below, made this hike my soul hike.
The view at the very tippy top of the summit is an indelible visage. Al and I popped our ciders and marveled at both our physical accomplishment and Wanaka’s surreal beauty. My ONLY complaint about Roy’s Peak was that the summit was freezing. It was 30 degrees with wind and though I was wearing 5 layers, my teeth were chattering. Alex gallantly gave me his light down jacket which I tied around my legs like a skirt. I didn’t care how ridiculous I looked, it helped me enjoy that cider atop the icy summit. Nonetheless, I still consider this hike my favorite hike of all time. On the way down, golden hour befell us sending a lavender hue across the grasslands and an amber glow across the mountains and lakes. Besides the crunch and pad of our boots against the dirt trail, the echoing chorus of bleating sheep was all that could be heard for miles and miles in every direction. When we reached the base of the trail, the sun was beginning to melt behind the peak we had just conquered, slowly snuffing out the vibrancy of the green and blue.
There’s nothing like taking a hot shower after a strenuous hike and then curling up in a cozy RV for a warm meal. I miss that; that feeling of sore muscles, clean feet, and the warming sensation of hot food and some wine while snuggling up in our twinkling campervan. Sigh.
Chapter 7: The Holiday Road
Wanaka to Fox Glacier, South Island, NZ
Feeling like we had earned ourselves a leisurely day, we found a spot right by the lake front in Wanaka and got ourselves a gluttonous breakfast right in town at Alchemy Cafe and Restaurant. Wanaka reminded me of a California beach town, just swap the surf for an azure lake framed by geological giants. We walked aimlessly along the side streets lined with surf, snow, hiking shops, cafes, ice cream parlors, and souvenir shops. We knocked out a fair bit of shopping before perching at the lakefront rooftop of Bombay Palace for afternoon cocktails in the sunshine. I don’t recommend Bombay Palace for cocktails, as Alex did not enjoy his mixed drink, but their view is unbeatable.
We hit up one of the most popular sites, at least for Instagrammers: that Wanaka tree. Said to be one of the most photographed trees in New Zealand, #thatWanakatree is a lone tree that grew up in the south end of Lake Wanaka. It looks as if it’s striking some sort of yoga pose, exalting the Southern Alps behind it. It was crawling with tourists, so getting a solid shot was a challenge. I’d say, we were underwhelmed. Nonetheless, I’m glad we saw it. It was a cute and lonely tree.
Our next destination on the South Island was Fox Glacier, a 3 and a half hour journey from Wanaka. Alex planned our itinerary so that after Wanaka we would traverse the West Coast before closing our semi-loop of the South Island. Our first stop along this West Coast trek was Wanaka Lavender Farm, which proved to be a farm and garden immersive experience. We got to pet alpacas, admire shaggy yaks, frolic through extensive rows of lavender in bloom, and quite literally stop to smell countless roses. It’s rather touristy, albeit, it’s extremely well cared for and offers a dainty little gift shop with an adjoining cafe where guests can order lavender ice cream and tea. We picked up a few more souvenirs because I firmly believe that anything containing lavender is a gift that keeps on giving.
We had planned quite a few stops on this longer leg of road tripping, and next up was the Blue Pools track. This track is a short hike through native forest that ultimately takes you to a swinging bridge that overhangs the Blue Pools of the Makarora River. As the swinging bridge came into sight, we saw a family cheering on their dad who was toweling himself off. We soon discovered that the Blue Pools is a sight where the not-so-faint-of-heart come to experience the thrill of jumping off a bridge. I would have considered it if it hadn’t been so cold out… okay, maybe considered is a strong word. I would have debated it and then likely chickened out unless Alex did it, but truly it was cold out and I could only imagine what the temperature of the water was if the air was a cool 50 degrees. As we stepped onto the bridge we saw a couple, possibly on their honeymoon, psyching themselves up for the plummet. The man was already sitting atop the bridge railing, his feet dangling over the edge, while the woman was pacing back and forth on the bridge platform, muttering things to herself. Ultimately, she chickened out. The Blue Pools are definitely worth a stop, and if you’re there on a hot day, wear a bathing suit and your courage!
Just ten minutes north of The Blue Pools was our next stop: Fantail Falls, a graceful falls that cascades into a bed of smooth rocks. Barring our way from getting closer to the falls lies the crystal clear Haast River. It’s a short hike to reach the falls and definitely worth a stop!
Driving along the West Coast certainly brought with it an entirely different landscape. For many stretches of this drive I was reminded of the boggy South in the U.S., similar to highways I’ve traveled down in South Carolina or Florida. The best part of this drive was Knight’s Point Lookout, where we were rewarded with our first real sweeping view of the Pacific from high upon a cliff’s edge. The lakes of New Zealand are stunning, but nothing beats gazing out upon an endless ocean. It also helped that we got to Knight’s Point at Golden Hour, which gave every cloud a golden lining and sent a mesmerizing shimmer across patches of the sea.
We got to Fox Glacier Top 10 Holiday Park at nightfall and had a bit of a hard time parking the RV in a tight spot. Tired from the drive, we called it an early night after making dinner and showering up in the holiday park’s facility.
The next morning we began our day with a short and easy walk around the Lake Matheson Loop trail. On a clear day, Lake Matheson mirrors NZ’s tallest peaks: Mount Cook and Mount Tasman. Unfortunately for us, it wasn’t all too clear of a day, so we didn’t get to capture that coveted photograph. Instead we got a nice little warm-up for the legs, and honestly, though it didn’t align with expectations, whenever I am immersed in nature I’m never disappointed.
We then drove 25 minutes north to the Franz Josef Glacier Trail. Fox Glacier trail was closed due to a landslide. Looking back on this hike, which is an easy hour and a half out and back hike, I think this would have been a cool sight to see via helicopter. If we ever go back, I’d like to try a heli-tour to this glacier. The hike was highly trafficked and didn’t offer much reward along the way until we got closer to the glacier. There are some lovely waterfalls that power along the dried river bed as we neared the glacier. What was most impressionable about the Franz Josef Glacier is how much it has retreated over the last decade due to Global Warming. As we approached the visage of the glacier, signs marked where the glacier used to end. The glacier hike inspired both sadness and wonder.
We had another 3 hour drive to get from Franz Josef to Arthur’s Pass, our final destination on the South Island. We only stopped once on this drive for an early dinner in the beachy coastal town of Hokitika. Though a little run down, we found it to be an endearing little place by the sea, full of small town charm. I could picture it being a great family spot during the peak of summer for a slice of beach life. Many stores and restaurants are closed on Mondays and especially the Monday following Christmas, so being a Monday, we didn’t have many options when it came to dining in Hokitika. We were able to find a sports bar sort of establishment for some comfort food and drinks. After dinner we walked onto the path that lines the beach to admire the surf and to snap some photos in front of a life-sized driftwood spelling of HOKITIKA on the beach.
Chapter 8: I know nothing with any certainty, but the sight of glow worms makes me dream
Arthur’s Pass, South Island, NZ
We made it to Jackson’s Retreat Alpine Holiday Park in Arthur’s Pass right around sunset. This was one of the nicest holiday parks we stayed in besides Milford Rainforest RV Park. The owners, a facetious married couple who seemed like they’d seen and heard it all, gave us a warm welcome and told us all about the glow worm trails on the property. This was an exciting and unexpected surprise to have the opportunity to see glow worms out in the wild! We had booked a tour for the glow worm caves in Waitomo on the North Island, and though that is a natural cave, it’s very touristy so it doesn’t feel as natural. Having the chance to see glow worms completely on our own was such an unexpected gift!
Our powered site backed up to native NZ rainforest and faced the awe-inspiring Southern Alps. After gazing out into the misty mountains, we hooked up the RV, made dinner with the limited groceries we had left, and showered up in the pristine facility of the holiday park. Enveloped by darkness, we decided to go on a glow worm adventure! The park provided squares of red cellophane to cover your cell phone flashlights with, as the light can disrupt the glow worms. Map in hand, our cell phones lighting our way, we set out in the pitch black dark of the rainy night, giddy with the sense of true adventure. We were having a hard time locating where the trail continued due to it being so dark, but we were soon rescued by fellow campers who told us they’d found one of the creek beds and that it was dense with thousands of glow worms. They graciously guided us back to where they had just explored, which proved to be a welcome dose of fear and fun. We had to cross over a creek and hike through dense rainforest. The darkness made it all feel so intrepid, like we were kids playing treasure hunt. The adventure of hunting for the glow worms alone was such an unforgettable joy and then… we saw them. Thousands of tiny pinpricks of neon green and blue covered the 7 foot creek embankment. It looked like a star strewn sky or like thousands of aqua embers quilted together in an amorphous constellation. I stood there hypnotized. It felt like witnessing real life magic, and it actually brought me to tears. We stood there speechless and mesmerized for what could have been an hour, who knows. Time stood still. We ventured on a different path after this first one to a different stretch of the embankment deep in the dark rainforest, where we once again got to experience the thrill of the quest and the rapture of discovering another trove. This was one of the highlights of the entire trip for me and I am so grateful I got to see this in my lifetime. As I often say, hail to the Mother.
Chapter 9: Be Still My California Dreamin Heart
Taupo, North Island, NZ
The next day we had to make our way from Arthur’s Pass back to Christchurch to return our trusty RV and then catch our 3 PM flight to the North Island. I felt the heaviness of recognizing this beautiful adventure was a little more than halfway completed and also the softness of gratitude for the wealth of memories we accrued and the wonderment of nature we explored. We made one stop on our drive at Cave Stream which is close to Castle Rock. Short on time, we had to pick one of these two options and settled on Cave Stream. We didn’t go into the cave as we weren’t dressed appropriately, but we ambled along the lovely trail that winds through shaggy grassed hillsides embellished with groupings of rocks that looked like they were homes to hobbits.
The time came to turn in what had become our home sweet home for the past 10 days, and the parting brought such sweet sorrow. Our South Island RV adventure converted us into RV fans for life, and we look forward to planning a future RV getaway. Once we handed over the keys and concluded the rental with the friendly staff of Wilderness Campervans, we made our way to the Christchurch airport where we took a flight back to Auckland on the North Island. We then had a connecting flight out of Auckland to literally the heart of the North Island, Taupo.
Taupo was love at first sight for me. As soon as our propeller plane landed at Taupo’s lemonade stand of an airport, we were greeted with heaps of warm, tropical sunshine. The airport is so small that they pull your luggage to the front of the airport entrance for you to pick up out of a lineup on the sidewalk. It’s very quaint and charming. We had a reservation for a car rental which was conveniently parked in the small airport parking lot just steps past where we picked up our luggage. We settled into our new trusty steed, which took Alex some getting used to after driving our 21 foot home on wheels for over a week, and then hit the road for Twin Peaks Lakeside Inn. Driving through Taupo reminded me of California a little bit. We drove through a more commercialized town center, then some well manicured neighborhoods of eclectic beachy looking real estate, and then drove along the edge of the city’s main event, Lake Taupo. Known as an inland sea, Lake Taupo is New Zealand’s largest lake by far. It’s a seemingly endless expanse of deep blue, with lush hills framing it and the horizon backdropping it, making it feel very much like a seascape. Encrusting the edge of the lake to our left and right were sweet little restaurants, cafes, hotels, and motels. A boardwalk paralleled the curve of the water’s edge, creating a very California vibe. The crowd seemed to be noticeably younger in Taupo, which gave it a youthful energy, ripe for staying out a bit later. We checked into Twin Peaks Lakeside Inn, which boasted an uninterrupted lakefront view and had a retro aesthetic. Though a bit outdated and slightly shabby, our second level room was enormous and the front facade was entirely floor to ceiling glass with a sliding glass door so we could soak up every bit of lakefront views. I can still picture that deep blue water stretching out as far as the eye could see, dotted with the rainbow sails of parasailors off in the distance. It looked like a painting.
Directly next to our inn was a lively pub with a vibrant outdoor patio called Jolly Good Fellows. We waited for a prime table out on the patio where we parked ourselves for hours. RV life was wonderfully isolating, and Taupo provided us with a friendly reemergence to civilization. We reveled in the slow burn of a Taupo sunset as we gorged on fish and chips and Sauvignon Blanc. We stayed well past sunset until the servers brought us blankets so we could still enjoy the evening al fresco. We made friends with a lovely family of four who were from Brisbane, Australia. We shared stories and laughs for a couple of hours before realizing we were the only ones left at the restaurant and the servers were closing up for the night. I actually wished we stayed longer in Taupo, it was such a haven by the inland sea.
Chapter 10: Splash Mountain meets Mars
Tongariro National Park, North Island, NZ
We had ambitious ideas for the following morning that did not come to fruition. Our love of Taupo and our new friends kept us out later than anticipated. We must have hit the snooze button 10-15 times the next day before we remembered we were no longer in our home on wheels, but in a hotel with a checkout time that was rapidly approaching. Our next destination was Tongariro National Park, home to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing AKA a hike through Mount Doom, our longest trek of the trip and one of the 10 great walks of NZ. We had originally planned to get to Tongariro by 10:00 AM at the latest so that we could secure tickets for the bus that takes hikers to the alpine crossing. There is a parking lot at the trail, but it adds an additional mile to the 12 mile trek and it is said to fill up early, so securing shuttle transportation is highly recommended. Seeing as we didn’t get ourselves out of bed until 10:00 AM, we needed to adapt our plan. We bid Taupo a loving farewell and then made the 1 hour and 25 minute drive to Chateau Tongariro in Tongariro National Park. The landscape drastically changed from coastal and lush to desert and volcanic as we entered Tongariro National Park.
Built in 1929, Chateau Tongariro is a stately ode to the past nestled amidst the valley of the park’s three active volcanoes: Mt. Ruapeho, Mt. Tongariro, and Mt Ngauruhoe. We had high expectations for the Chateau, as it was expensive and it exuded an heir of sophistication with its grand entrance, reservation-only dining room, and high tea room. Unfortunately, we learned that it was a bit of a pretentious facade. The service was inattentive and quite frankly, unwelcoming, our room didn’t have air conditioning, and it also was full of flies. I don’t like to complain, especially because this didn’t take away from our incredible experience in Tongariro, I only mention it for the sake of saving prospective travelers from overspending on this disappointing “chateau” experience. Options are somewhat limited in the park in the way of lodging, but I think we would have been better off picking up groceries and staying at a budget-friendly hotel or Air B and B. We checked in and reserved seats for the 8 A.M. shuttle to the alpine crossing the next morning, which meant we had the rest of this day, New Years Eve actually, to explore some of the lighter trails in the park.
After settling into our room and regrouping, we set out for the Taranaki Falls trail, an easy 4 mile loop that features a 65 foot waterfall. We walked along the road beside the Chateau which took us past some lodges before connecting us with the Taranaki Falls trailhead. This was a lovely, dynamic break for us before our long trek the next day on the alpine crossing. We took our time as we ambled through shady forest as well as stretches of desert-like landscape with unearthly looking rock formations. When we came to a babbling creek about 10 minutes from the falls, we decided to descend its steep ravine and enjoy a picnic lunch atop the dry rocks of the rushing creek. With the sun on our backs and the gentle spray of the creek, it was a most peaceful picnic. After lunch, we made it to the falls, which had collected a diverse crowd of hikers. The sun was shining, but not hard enough to get me into the lagoon of the waterfall, that spray from the powerful cascade was enough to cover me in goosebumps. We enjoyed watching other far thicker skinned hikers strip down, wade in, and take a cleansing bath in the icy lagoon, which was rippling with the relentless churning of the waterfall. The rocks, the colors, the desert feel, and the shrieks of hikers taking the polar plunge into the lagoon and under the waterfall, all reminded me of Splash and Thunder Mountain in Disneyworld.
After our enjoyable hike to Taranaki Falls, we relaxed in our chateau room for a few hours before it was time for our dinner reservation in the main dining room. Honestly, this was the first time on the entire trip where I felt like we had a little down time to lounge around, look at our pictures, read, and just hang.
Our New Years Eve dinner at the Chateau dining room was in true New Years Eve fashion, overrated. We had been looking forward to our fancy-ish dinner out at the chateau only to discover that the bartender had no clue what a dirty martini was and the food was exceptionally unremarkable. Knowing we had an early rise and the longest hike of our trip the following morning, we headed back to the room immediately following dinner and didn’t even bother to stay up until midnight. Lame as it might sound, we thought we’d start off 2020 well rested.
Bleary eyed and heavy on our feet, we headed down to the lobby at around 7:45 AM to pick up our bagged lunches we had arranged through the chateau and to hurriedly shovel in some extremely overpriced breakfast from the dining room before heading to the shuttle stop just across from the chateau. Once we boarded the crowded, un-air conditioned shuttle, our sweet and native bus driver gave us some history about the park and the volcanoes, as well as some safety tips for the trail. Everyone on the bus was rather quiet, tired and mentally preparing for the challenge ahead. It was reassuring to see such a wide range of ages amongst us. Everyone congregated at the trailhead restroom to lather on sunscreen, situate layers, and to take a few deep breaths before embarking on the dusty trail ahead. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a one-way 12 mile hike that can be hiked either way, but it’s suggested to start at the Mangatepopo parking lot at the southwest end of the track and finish at Ketetahi parking lot at the northeast end of the track, as the views are said to be better when beginning at the southwest end.
Though quite heavily trafficked, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a beautifully diversified trail. The beginning miles are quite easy, taking you on boardwalks that stretch across fields of petrified lava and tussock grasses. Signs that were both mocking and cautionary were planted every couple of miles to indicate how you should be feeling physically and remind you to hydrate and take breaks. I had taken a screenshot of a graphic I’d found online that depicted the trail and the levels of difficulty along it, so I was mentally well prepared for when the going was going to get tough. There were about two points that were challenging, but honestly, our strenuous day and half day hikes seemed to prepare my lungs well. I never once felt exhausted and Al and I sailed past many groups of hikers on the ascent. The trail took us through Mount Tongariro and Mount Ngauruhoe, both active volcanoes. As we neared Central Crater, the large basin between the two volcanoes, we saw signs that warned us of volcanic eruption that could take place at any moment. Another sign told the story of the most recent eruption that took place in 2012 where luckily no one was killed, but boy did that put me on edge, especially considering the fact that this was the same chain of volcanoes as White Island, which had a fatal eruption just weeks before we departed for NZ. Additionally, the volcanoes feature smoking vents, which functioned as consistent reminders that these were active volcanoes. Mount Ngauruhoe is the famed Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings, but ever since a bad eruption in the 70s, hikers are no longer allowed to hike to Mount Ngauruhoe’s summit. Instead, the trail took us across South Crater of Mount Tongariro which is an other-worldly flat stretch that truly felt like we were walking on Mars. This flat stretch is a nice reprieve before climbing the steep ascent to Red Crater summit. Red Crater is a dazzling bowl layered with fiery reds and burnt sienna, and it served as an excellent distraction from the physical test of the ascent. Once we reached Red Crater summit we were rewarded with such a dynamic panorama: to the south was Red Crater, behind us to the southwest stood the sand castle-like summit of Mount Tongariro, and below us rested the sapphire lakes of the valleys beyond the park to the north. But what makes this hike so unique and memorable has to be the Emerald Lakes that glisten below the slopes to the east, a trio of turquoise pools amidst a Mars-like landscape. After admiring the view atop Red Crater summit, we decided to have our lunch on the other side of the summit near the Emerald Lakes, which meant we had to endure what I think was the most arduous portion of the hike, the steep with loose-rock and sand descent of Red Crater summit. It was nearly impossible to make it down this descent without stumbling at least once. It felt like we were skiing as we bent our knees deeply and zigzagged our way down the descent, going from one portion of the trail with seemingly “better footing” to the other. Eventually we made it to the Emerald Lakes, dusty, sweating, and ankles on fire. We enjoyed our lunch on some rocks overlooking one of the Emerald Lakes, which smell of sulfur but are mesmerizingly vibrant. Bragging rights: this was our only stop of the entire hike.
After the Emerald Lakes, I remember the trail became less dynamic, but nonetheless beautiful and full of sweeping views of the valley. The hike became the most challenging when we only had 4 miles left. It was all downhill and not physically strenuous, but our legs felt like jello and it was most demanding mentally. My feet also started to hurt at that point and the pain only intensified. Come mile 10, I was over this hike. Al and I also wanted to be sure we made the 2:30 PM bus, as the next bus wouldn’t be picking up hikers until 4:30 PM and there is not much to do at Ketetahi parking lot besides lay in your own filth on the ground. I kept repeating “mind over matter” to myself as we hustled, literally broke into a jog for the last two miles, past swaths of hikers on the last mile of the trail. We ended up making it to the bus at Ketetahi with 13 minutes to spare, and discovered we were one of three other couples from our morning bus ride to have made the 2:30 PM pick-up, the majority of the bus was filled with the 7:30 AM hikers. Exhausted, dusty, and feet burning with pain, we boarded that stifling bus and endured a nauseating 20 minute ride back to Chateau Tongariro. The first thing I did when we got into our rental car back at the Chateau was take off my hiking boots, which emitted a cloud of sandy dust, and peel off my socks so I could then wiggle my toes in front of the air vent, which felt glorious. Al checked us out and then we were back on the open road, next destination: Rotorua, the spa hot spot of the North Island, literally a hot spot as it’s known for its hot springs. Nothing sounded better than a spa at that moment. It was 3:00 PM and my steps tracker on my phone had us clocked at 14 miles. Seeing as most days I try to shoot for 3-4 miles worth of steps in my entire day, I felt exceedingly accomplished.
Chapter 11: Soaking away the sore
Rotorua, North Island, NZ
The drive from Tongariro to Rotorua is about 2 hours. In addition to the spas and hot springs, Rotorua is known for showcasing Maori culture and history, which is reflected in the architecture of the town square. As soon as we arrived into Rotorua, we were greeted by enormous sculptures paying homage to the Maori people and traditions. We drove by neighborhoods, lodging, and then past the main square which is backdropped by Lake Rotorua. When we checked into our hotel, which was situated directly next to an indoor/outdoor courtyard of countless bars and restaurants, I immediately inquired about spas and hot springs. Our concierge gave us a brochure for the Polynesian Spa but warned us that it was likely we wouldn’t be able to get a massage reservation due to the holiday and our tardiness. Every muscle in my body was sore so I was a little disappointed, but still eager to at least try a hot spring. We quickly readied ourselves for the Polynesian Spa which was a very short drive away from our hotel.
The spa lobby reminded me of a public indoor swimming pool, it was not very zen or sophisticated, but it was clean and the attendants who checked us in were friendly. Sure enough, they were fully booked for massages so we got the package for the adults only lakeview hot spring which entitled us to towels and showers in the locker room. We both entered the hot spring via binary locker rooms and then prowled the scene for the most secluded spring that overlooked Lake Rotorua. The hot spring featured a cement pool deck, a covered lounge chair area, a grotto hot spring, and then two other hot springs. The springs looked like 4 foot deep baby pools edged in mossy covered rocks. Each spring had a sign that read the temperature and told you about the spring water’s benefits and source. We slowly toed our way down the rocky stairwell of the more secluded, lakefront spring, emphasis on the word slowly. The spring was scaldingly hot! It took some time, but after about 5 minutes of gradually lowering our bodies from feet to chests, we were fully submerged, gazing out onto Lake Rotorua at golden hour. This was exactly what our muscles needed.
Back in town, we walked the indoor/outdoor corridor of restaurants and bars that neighbored our hotel. It was a stationary parade of aromas and noise. Every restaurant featured different fare, making our dining decision a conflicting one. Eventually, we landed on a modern seafood place with a cute patio table under twinkling bistro lights where we reveled in our physical accomplishment from the first half of our day and started to reflect back on all our favorite moments from the trip up until that point. There was a little carnival at the lake’s waterfront on the other side of the outdoor corridor, but when we walked down to it after dinner, it had closed. We strolled the waterfront for a little while, which sort of resembled a colorful beach boardwalk, before our exhaustion hit us and we said goodnight to Rotorua. When I glanced at my mile tracker before conking out for bed, we had clocked over 17 miles!
Chapter 12: Magical memories
Hobbiton, Waitomo, and Piha Beach, North Island, NZ
Though our alarms rudely awakened us at 7:00 AM, an hour I don’t welcome on vacation, we both popped right out of bed, packed up and checked out eagerly, as our next destination was one of the primary draws of the trip: a tour through Hobbiton. We had a one hour drive from Rotorua to Matamata where we reported to The Shire’s Rest for our tour departure at 9:00 AM. The drive into The Shire’s Rest is, as one would imagine, whimsical and pastoral. The Shire’s Rest itself is a campus of public restrooms, a cafe, gift shop, and a parking lot that houses the fleet of tour buses that shepherd all the tourists into actual Hobbiton. Everything on the campus has a Middle Earth aesthetic and the famous Howard Shore score serenaded the tides of tourists spilling out of the buses and into the buses. We got breakfast at the cafe while we waited for our tour to commence. I wasn’t thrilled to be boarding a tour bus, but once we did, I realized it helped to increase my excitement. Our tour guide, a wiry young bloke with a Cockney accent, began our tour on the bus by explaining how Peter Jackson, director of the Lord of the Rings, sent scouts all over New Zealand and ultimately they discovered the Alexander Family Farm. Jackson negotiated a partnership with the Alexander Family and not only was the family rewarded by the lucrative films and franchise, but they continue to prosper due to the decision to preserve the set for year-round tours. The farm is still fully operational as well. Good for the Alexander Family, right?!
Aboard the bus, the TVs reeled raw footage of the cast and crew on location in Hobbiton. Jackson and his casting director wanted to employ locals as their extras, and as a result, the set was full of colorful, endearing Kiwi characters who seemed to bring a vital element of humor and zest to the entire endeavor. What was immediately clear from the footage on the bus was that the entire cast became family and every actor, right down to the New Zealand P.E.teacher turned hobbit extra, embodied their character with reverence and appreciation. From the ride in, we quickly learned of Peter Jackson’s obsession with the books and extreme perfectionism. For example, in the books, Froto and Sam sit underneath plum trees, but the Alexander Farm had pear trees, not plum. Therefore, Jackson demanded that his set crew paint every single leaf on the pear trees and fashion plums to the pear trees as well, as it had to be true to the Tolkein vision. Apparently the set crew had to paint over one thousand leaves, and it’s important to note that the plum trees feature in the film for a total of 3 seconds. Though perhaps not the easiest boss to work for, Jackson’s attention to detail is precisely what has enabled all Hobbit and LOTR fans to be transported into Tolkein’s imagination so vividly over the years.
Upon arrival onto the farm, we were greeted by a flock of sheep herding themselves across the dirt road, halting our bus and giving us all a chance to gaze out the windows and marvel at the spectacle we had all traveled great lengths to explore. We reached the entrance point to Hobbiton, disembarked, and our spritely tour guide led us into a world of enchantment. Colorful portal doors embossed the rolling hills of green grasses, wildflowers, and mossy overhang. Herbaceous gardens filled with sunflowers and ripening vegetables filled in the valley, and the iconic oak tree above Bag End oversaw the entire village like a watchful monument. We learned this very tree is actually fake, another Peter Jackson compulsion that required painstaking care and creation.
The tour took us past every single one of the 44 permanently reconstructed Hobbit holes so we could admire the artful staging of each one that so acutely reflected the magic of the movies. The Hobbit holes are authentic facades with unfinished earth walled interiors, the filming of the interior Bag End scenes took place in Wellington. We ambled along fairytale footbridges, past the Party Tree, and then past the millhouse that embanks the lake of the hillside valley. The tour concludes at The Green Dragon Inn where all tourists receive a complimentary beverage. The Green Dragon Inn very well may be my favorite pub I’ve ever stepped foot inside. Constructed of exposed beams, timber, and stone, the Green Dragon Inn features cozy wood burning fireplaces, Oculus windows, window seats brimming with bohemian cushions, and detailed Hobbit paraphernalia decorating every inch of blank wall and mantle space. We both got a mug of hard cider and slowly explored every inch of The Green Dragon Inn as well as the surrounding area, in a mesmerized gaze. We came across a canvas tent strewn with colorful ribbons and realized it was set up for a private event. We both immediately felt disappointed with ourselves for not having known Hobbiton offered private events as this would have been our dream wedding venue. We decided perhaps one day we’ll renew our vows in The Shire. All in all, the Hobbiton tour is a must-do if you’re in New Zealand and you’re a Hobbit/LOTR fan. I’ve been on many tours and this was hands down my favorite tour I’ve ever experienced. As if we hadn’t already watched the Hobbit and Lord of the Rings movies enough, the tour inspired us to rewatch them all yet again, but this time with renewed purpose and appreciation. 
Practically levitating from the magic of Hobbiton, we headed about one hour and 15 minutes southwest for Waitomo for another highly anticipated experience: the Waitomo cave glow worms. We had a 2:30 PM tour and we made it with about 45 minutes to spare. Waitomo didn’t seem to offer much more than the caves, but the caves are a well maintained tourist attraction with clean public restrooms, a cafe, and a gift shop all housed under an enormous tenting canopy. The temperature increased by about 10 degrees between Matamata in the morning and Waitomo in the afternoon. We recognized many of our fellow tourists from Hobbiton at the Waitomo caves, so it seems it’s a popular sequence to do both in one day when in the Auckland area. The Waitomo Glowworm Caves were discovered by Maori Chief Tane Tinorau and English surveyor Fred Mace in 1887. By 1889, Tane opened the caves to tourists which brought hundreds of visitors to Waitomo. In 1906 the administration of the caves was taken over by the government, however, in 1989 the land and caves were finally turned back over to the descendants of the original owners, Chief Tane and his wife, Huti. What’s super cool is that many of the current employees of the caves are direct descendants of Chief Tane and Huti.
Our tour of the Waitomo caves began on the upper level of the caves, the dry level, that is filled with delicate cave formations, ceilings that dripped, and echoing, damp chambers. As we neared the lower level of the caves filled with a cave river, our tour guide took us to a platform that overlooked the lower level as we could begin to see some glowworms on the overhanging ceiling. She asked us to shine our phone flashlights on the ceiling and when we did, the curtain was pulled back on the glowworm magic. Hundreds of mucus strings clung from the ceiling like sticky necklaces. The glow worms use their phosphorescent glow to attract flies and winged bugs and then trap them in their mucus necklace. I found the revelation to align with what I know to be true about nature, it’s beautiful and it’s cruel. We then descended the dimly lit stairway to the lower level, where we were enveloped by an inky darkness and cave grotto musk. We all boarded row boats in the dark, which felt rather adventurous, similar to boarding Disneyworld’s Pirates of the Carribean. Our tour guide, a direct Tane descendant, stood at the helm of the boat and used a track of ropes bolted into the cave walls and ceilings to guide our boat through the cave river. We were asked to all remain silent and refrain from any photography on the ride through the cave river that ultimately led us to the main grotto where thousands of glowworms lived on the ceiling. When we came to the main grotto, I looked up to discover a luminescent wonderland; thousands of tiny pin pricks of glowing blue-green light burned and glowed overhead like a celestial tapestry. Between the silence, the darkness, and then this, a micro galaxy on the ceiling above me, I can use no other word to describe it besides spiritual. A spine tingling wave of gratitude washed over me as we idled in the grotto.
The boat portion of the tour ends at the mouth of the other end of the cave. It took our eyes a minute to adjust to the searing light of the outside world, but once we did, we noticed the cave river’s clear waters and spotted trout and eels. We stopped in the well stocked gift shop for a few final souvenirs before bidding Waitomo caves a fond farewell and hitting the road for our final destination: Piha Beach.
We had a 3 hour and 10 minute drive north to Piha Beach, which is just 50 minutes from Auckland, where we would fly out of the following day. The drive from Waitomo to Piha is rather uneventful, lots of flat highway. Once we got to the Auckland area the landscape became a bit more interesting. The roads to Piha beach were lush and took us through what appeared to be the nicer spots of the outskirts of Auckland. The real estate became beachier and more luxurious as we drove further from the city. The road got curvier and elevated higher and higher alongside the rainforest cliffs of the coastline. We were staying in an Air B & B called rainforest magic at Piha Beach and after a highly touristic day, we were both ready to unwind with some wine and a view. When we arrived at rainforest magic, we were immediately bewitched. Stilted atop the precipice of the rainforest mountains backdropping Piha Beach, Rainforest Magic was a modern bungalow of floor to ceiling windows overlooking the rainforest and the beach. The centerpiece of the beach was the towering rock formation called Lion Rock, which reminded me of the floating mountains in Avatar. Our host, who lived in a lovely cottage in front of the rental, welcomed us most graciously and then left us to our own devices. We hauled our luggage inside the bungalow, which to this day is one of the top three most unforgettable places we’ve ever stayed in. We enjoyed a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc, our new favorite wine thanks to New Zealand, on the deck where we caught glimpses of a fiery red sunset between patches of sea fog and rainforest mist. Once the sun took its final bow beneath the sea, Alex made us a warming fire as I made dinner. We cozied up on the sofa for a movie night. The rental had some serious throwbacks on DVD as well as a DVD player. It was the perfect way to unwind and keep the vacation-ending-blues at bay.
The next morning we woke up fairly early to try to get some time on Piha Beach. We climbed most of Lion Rock, but not all the way to the top as it was blocked off and seemed rather perilous to ignore the blockade and warning signs. We climbed some of the lava rock that functioned as a sea wall and I took that moment to say my heartfelt goodbye to this beautiful, wild country. I often take time at the end of impactful trips to conduct a personal and ceremonial goodbye to my destination, something akin to a “namaste” at the end of yoga. For non yogis, not that I consider myself a true yogi, but for anyone who doesn’t know what namaste means, it literally means in Sanskrit, “I bow to you.” Though I’ve heard in yoga classes that it is supposed to reflect a union of spirits where one states that the inner spark or peace in them bows to the inner spark or peace in the other. I’ve heard the Americanized interpretation or reinvention of the word “namaste” might not be the original functionality of the word, but in my opinion, who cares, new-agists be damned! I think it’s a beautiful reinvention or repurposing of the word. It is often the perfect salutation for my quiet ceremonial goodbyes to places that truly have illuminated their spark to me, and reciprocally, illuminated my inner spark. A part of me stays with my destination and a part of my destination stays with me.
Epilogue: Namaste, New Zealand
And so, I bow to you, New Zealand. The inner peace in me sees the inner peace in you and I’ve tethered myself to that namaste for the last few months of isolation. I’ll end this post by circling back to the quote I began with, “All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.” Deciding to think back on my most recent adventure proved to be a most productive thing to do with the time given to me. It showed me all that I gained from two weeks spent hiking, walking, exploring, and marveling. It showed me what I chose to leave behind with every step forward on those mountains, with every day closer to the new year. It was the last time I felt electrified by my existence on this planet. It has helped me anchor myself to this truth: I don’t travel to escape, I travel to reconnect with who I want to become. And for me, that happens best when I reconnect with this beautiful world.
Madness & Magic 